New Orleans to Florida III

Fri 11/10 and Sat 11/11/12
Port St. Joe is the start of our "Old, Old Florida" part of the trip.  As we were to find out, the further one goes east toward the Big Bend, as we would end up doing, the more original, authentic, unique this part of old Florida reveals itself to be.  We were eager to experience Port St. Joe all over again (earlier trip Nov 2010, see postings).  The free bikes were taken; so, we walked the few blocks to main street for a cup of Joe at a coffee shop that doubles as book store, and crafts and painting shop with their respective training centers.  No better place to get a feel for the community than to listen to the chatter of locals.  Then on to visiting shops on the way back via the Piggly Wiggly, which is a mere 2 blocks from the marina.  The next day we rode the bikes along the parks that line the waterfront. And we poked around some more along the way.

But the best fun was talking with the very friendly and accommodating marina personnel and the boaters.  Boaters are fascinating and instructive with their tales and pieces of advice.  Somehow Port St. Joe Marina lends itself to a whole lot of conversations.  I'm not sure exactly why.  Maybe because there are liveaboards as well as frequent travelers, and because the marina layout and environment lends itself to communal life. So, we explored what routes to take for points South, the problems of tides around the Big Bend, concerns about overnight navigation, favorite spots, and getting to know Loopers (motoring inland U.S. routes and the ICW).

Mon 11/12 and Tue 11/13/12
We left Port St. Joe around 10:30 a.m. after making calls to Apalachicola marinas.  The literature on anchoring or municipal wharf options was not specific enough.  We decided on Scipio Creek Marina and headed for the inland waterway to Apalachicola:  Gulf County Canal to ICW which conjoins with the Apalachicola River on its way to Apalachicola Bay.  White City, of which one can only see the docks, offers free overnight docking, if one should need to or want to make a stopover.  Then there's Lake Wimico.  Some 25 NM further onward,  almost to the John Gorries Bridge, we took a sharp U-turn to starboard and headed up Scipio Creek to the last marina, which is Scipio Creek Marina.  Arrival 4:30 p.m. given currents and headwind.

After Port St. Joe Marina, Scipio Creek Marina was a disappointment but it did provide protective docking (away from the boat traffic).  And it was at a walkable distance from the very quaint historic downtown, absolutely worth exploring.   We also met transplants, from within the U.S. but also from abroad, that decided they liked the charm of this forgotten corner of Florida, the Florida of yesteryears. Coffee at this Hispanic coffeehouse Cafe con Leche and lunch at Apalachicola Seafood Grill were entertaining.  Visits to shops and the Maritime Museum held our interest, as well.

We also spent time visiting the different private marinas and city docking options to get the true lay of the land. Local folks set us straight as to tides and other considerations. Next time we might opt for the Police Department's city dock that is central to all the sights, or the City's Municipal Docks past the bridge.  Also, Apalachicola Marina (formerly Miller) offers several options, especially for Cats, that place you and your boat where all the downtown hubbub is.  Since we took time to really explore Apalachicola and all it has to offer, we also found, to our surprise, that we came to appreciate it more than expected.  It must be this sense of "old, old Florida" that is attractive to us.

Wed 11/14 and Thu 11/15/12
We left around 9:30 a.m. to cross Apalachicola Bay and head up the Carrabelle River to C-Quarters Marina.  Again, tides and lack of local knowledge would deter us from looking for anchorages.  In addition, the weather coming across the Bay was nasty.  The day was grey with some drizzle, cold, and bucking headwinds and waves: just miserable.  We reached C-Quarters Marina around 3:30 p.m.  with the high tide. The next morning, we saw what the River looks like during low tide.  Yikes!  there were exposed swaths, like islands, in the middle of the Carrabelle River.  A reminder to pay attention to the tides, even though the channel is well marked.

C-Quarters is within a block of ATM, good size grocery (IGA), an Ace Hardware  and a couple of blocks from a colorful coffeehouse and pharmacy.  The services at C-Quarters are good and everything is functioning. It looks like an old town hardware store with a front porch that looks out on the River.  Old timers gather to drink beer and tell tales.  What a great introduction to the farthest point on our journey, the farthest point east for this trip.  "Old, Old Florida" here refers to a defiantly individual corner of the U.S. and we have fully enjoyed it.