New Orleans to Florida V

LAST LEG OF THE TRIP

Sun. 11/26
On the last stretch to home port, back to New Orleans, we experienced what probably other sailors do: a kind of bitter sweet feeling. On the one hand, we were a bit weary from the stresses of the trip and being alert 24/7.  On the other hand, we were sorry to put closure on an often exciting journey.  But we'll be off again sometime in the near future.  Winter is setting in; so, there's less in the long trips but more in terms of short weekender type jumps.

We left Barber Marina at around 8:00 a.m. and traveled the Alabama Canal (ICW) to Mobile Bay, crossing it and passing north of Dauphin Is., finally entering the Mississippi Sound (ICW).   It was still light, so we passed Petit Bois Is., part of the Mississippi barrier islands, and stopped for the night around mid-way across Horn Is., arriving roughly at around 5:00 p.m.  There we anchored around 1/2 mi. off shore.  Though light, the wind was out of the East where we had no protection. So there was plenty of rocking well into the night until the wind shifted.  Location:  30 deg. 14.227' N, 88 deg. 37.876' W

Mon. 11/27
We left Horn Is. at around 8:00 a.m. with winds pretty much on our back quarter.  SE 10-15 knots and seas 1-2 ft.  Thus we made great headway and, instead of anchoring out again at one of the Mississippi islands, we thought we'd try Rabbit Is. which is ensconced in an area at the entrance to the Rigolets, LA.  Still light, we decided to make it through the Rigolets and into Lake Pontchartrain, finally reaching home port at around 8:30 p.m.  Exhausted but safely home (for Aventura) at South Shore Marina.

SUMMARY

Itinerary:  New Orleans - Cat Is., MS - Wolf Bay on Alabama Canal - Pensacola's Palafox Marina - Destin Harbor - St. Andrew's Bay State Park - Port St. Joe Marina - Apalachicola's Scipio Marina - Carrabelle's C Quarter Marina - Oxbow on ICW back to St. Joseph's Bay - Ingram Bayou on Alabama Canal - Horn Is., MS - New Orleans

We loved seeing some of our old favorites:
- The Alabama Canal with Perdido Bay and Big Lagoon
- Ingram Bayou
- Pensacola's Palafox Marina and quaint downtown  (arts festival and all)
- Port St. Joe's Marina

We added a new favorite:
- Apalachicola

We learned new skills:
- operating the vessel throughout the night on a multi-day schedule
- fixing mechanical problems along the way (Capt. Mike, that is)
- perfecting sailing on our relatively new Cat (a work in progress)

See New Orleans to Florida I - V.  Send comments.

Looking forward to continuing our adventures on Aventura!

New Orleans to Florida IV

RETURNING TO NEW ORLEANS

Fri 11/16/12
We left C-Quarters Marina and the town of Carrabelle around 10:30 a.m., later than our usual departures because we had to wait for a favorable tide.  The channel would have been deep enough at any time, but dockside is tricky.  Coming in mid-afternoon was fine, but leaving late morning required caution.  At some point in the early morning we felt we were stuck, and we saw other monohulls lean onto their sides.  It's not uncommon to see boats aground, only to be let loose after a few hours. All this put us back in our itinerary.  We had hoped to cross St. George's Sound and Apalachicola Bay and start the inland ICW toward St. Joseph's Bay before dark but that was not to be.  We decided to overnight in Apalachicola, arriving mid-afternoon but only a couple hours before dark.  Given the depth problems at the municipal docks, we chose to stay at Apalachicola Marina (Miller Marine), which has a lay-along dock centrally located for easy access to the town but not so close to the main office and its services.  So it ended up being a good location with electricity and water but without other services yet at the same price as if.  It's too bad that the marina situation is not very satisfactory at Apalachicola, at least for Cats, since the town is quite attractive and interesting.

Sat 11/17/12
We enjoyed coffee at Cafe con Leche, talking with the interesting people that have retired or simply settled  in the area, plus other sailors.  After provisioning we set out for the inland waterway to St. Joseph's Bay.  Another boat whose crew we had met were also headed our way.  So, we loosely traveled together for that day and anchored close by at a location that Capt. Mike and I were targeting.  Leaving at 1 p.m. from Apalachicola, we arrived at an oxbow before White City (after Lake Wimico) around 5:00 p.m. EST.  It was quiet, serene and really cold.  But beautiful.  Capt. Mike set out the anchor and 2 lines aft to run to trees on opposite shores for extra protection (winds and currents) . Location:  29 deg. 50.020' N, 85 deg. 11.380'W.

Sun 11/18 - Wed 11/21/12
We set out around 9:00 a.m. with the goal of reaching St. Andrew's Bay for an overnight at either the State Park near the entrance to the Bay, or Smack Bayou that is near Panama City.  However, our starboard engine began to overheat and plans changed drastically.  First Capt. Mike tried to remedy the situation but we had to detour to Port St. Joe Marina to order a part (impeller) and wait a few days.  We managed on one engine, tied up and began the process of waiting. This is one of the best places at which to wait because this marina has it all plus exceptional friendliness of both staff and fellow boaters.  So, we spent time playing tourist on the marina's bikes, got provisions, did boat chores and waited for the part (see earlier posting on Port St Joe Marina).  The part was supposed to arrive  by Tue but only made it on Wed with a little drama.  But why get into the minutia of it all.  It's now past and Aventura survived that hurdle. (thanks to the mechanical skills of Capt. Mike).

Wed 11/21 - Thu 11/22/12
We got the part in the early afternoon and departed Port St. Joe Marina by around 4:00 p.m.  We decided to skip St. Andrew's Bay and Destin, which we had been to already during this trip (see previous postings).  Instead we motored through the night, entering Pensacola Bay by 11:00 a.m. on the 22nd, crossing through Big Lagoon and Perdido Bay, and entering our anchorage point, Ingrams Bayou, by 1:30 p.m.  Roughly 124 NM in 22 1/2 hrs. This was our first experience doing an overnighter and there were lessons to be learned.  We motored because of wind and wave conditions.  So, we weren't afforded the opportunity of sailing through the night.  That would have been more interesting and more exciting, for sure.  But fooling with radar, getting used to operating in the dark, trying to compensate for the lack of vision and just being all around alert was challenging.  Also, trying to be satisfied with just catnaps rather than a full a night's sleep.  All in all, overnighting would seem to be another tool to use but sparingly; it has advantages and disadvantages.

When we made it into Ingrams Bayou, we were ecstatic and less tired than expected.  Of course a long nap upon arrival helped.  Location:  30 deg. 19.245'N, 87 deg. 33.469' W.  This anchorage is superb.  It's calm, a good weather hole, beautiful and with small coves within the Bayou. So, there's some privacy as well. The greenery is lush and the animals are aplenty.  Deer, dolphins and different birds, like falcons, cranes and pelicans.   Even though popular, the configuration of the Bayou doesn't lend itself to crowding.  Some fishermen and tourists make their way in there but not too many.  A really wonderful place in which to anchor and not too far from New Orleans.

Fri 11/23/12
We continued to relax and catch up on rest at Ingrams Bayou.  Including a bit of rowing to explore and get some exercise, reading and discussing the next plan.  Lovely.

Sat 11/24/12
With knowledge that a freeze was expected for tonight, we decided to go into Barber Marina, nearby on the Alabama Canal (ICW).  We checked in before noon CST, filled up the fuel tanks, pumped out and got a slip.  Barber Marina & Shipyard is a large, modern facility with new everything.  Only here and at Palafox Marina, Pensacola, were we able to get an actual slip that could accommodate our 20.3 ft. beam!  Later we used their courtesy car to visit the town of Elberta's grocery store, some 7-8 mi. away.  There's nothing near the Marina, nothing walking distance.  So, we also used the vehicle to get a bite at Pirate's Cove, a restaurant on the water that has slips for boats and outside seating/activities for families.  At this time of the year, there's hardly any activity except for customers crowding around the bar inside raving about a football game.  The food is bar food served on paper plates, kind of to-go, and okay but not special.  What's special is the character of the place.  It reminds me somewhat of Cooter Brown's of New Orleans with all manner of  things hanging from the ceilings and walls.  Two at Pirate's Cove caught my eye:  "Beauty is in the mind of the beerholder," and "Pirate's Cove we hook 'em and cook 'em."  Amen.

New Orleans to Florida III

Fri 11/10 and Sat 11/11/12
Port St. Joe is the start of our "Old, Old Florida" part of the trip.  As we were to find out, the further one goes east toward the Big Bend, as we would end up doing, the more original, authentic, unique this part of old Florida reveals itself to be.  We were eager to experience Port St. Joe all over again (earlier trip Nov 2010, see postings).  The free bikes were taken; so, we walked the few blocks to main street for a cup of Joe at a coffee shop that doubles as book store, and crafts and painting shop with their respective training centers.  No better place to get a feel for the community than to listen to the chatter of locals.  Then on to visiting shops on the way back via the Piggly Wiggly, which is a mere 2 blocks from the marina.  The next day we rode the bikes along the parks that line the waterfront. And we poked around some more along the way.

But the best fun was talking with the very friendly and accommodating marina personnel and the boaters.  Boaters are fascinating and instructive with their tales and pieces of advice.  Somehow Port St. Joe Marina lends itself to a whole lot of conversations.  I'm not sure exactly why.  Maybe because there are liveaboards as well as frequent travelers, and because the marina layout and environment lends itself to communal life. So, we explored what routes to take for points South, the problems of tides around the Big Bend, concerns about overnight navigation, favorite spots, and getting to know Loopers (motoring inland U.S. routes and the ICW).

Mon 11/12 and Tue 11/13/12
We left Port St. Joe around 10:30 a.m. after making calls to Apalachicola marinas.  The literature on anchoring or municipal wharf options was not specific enough.  We decided on Scipio Creek Marina and headed for the inland waterway to Apalachicola:  Gulf County Canal to ICW which conjoins with the Apalachicola River on its way to Apalachicola Bay.  White City, of which one can only see the docks, offers free overnight docking, if one should need to or want to make a stopover.  Then there's Lake Wimico.  Some 25 NM further onward,  almost to the John Gorries Bridge, we took a sharp U-turn to starboard and headed up Scipio Creek to the last marina, which is Scipio Creek Marina.  Arrival 4:30 p.m. given currents and headwind.

After Port St. Joe Marina, Scipio Creek Marina was a disappointment but it did provide protective docking (away from the boat traffic).  And it was at a walkable distance from the very quaint historic downtown, absolutely worth exploring.   We also met transplants, from within the U.S. but also from abroad, that decided they liked the charm of this forgotten corner of Florida, the Florida of yesteryears. Coffee at this Hispanic coffeehouse Cafe con Leche and lunch at Apalachicola Seafood Grill were entertaining.  Visits to shops and the Maritime Museum held our interest, as well.

We also spent time visiting the different private marinas and city docking options to get the true lay of the land. Local folks set us straight as to tides and other considerations. Next time we might opt for the Police Department's city dock that is central to all the sights, or the City's Municipal Docks past the bridge.  Also, Apalachicola Marina (formerly Miller) offers several options, especially for Cats, that place you and your boat where all the downtown hubbub is.  Since we took time to really explore Apalachicola and all it has to offer, we also found, to our surprise, that we came to appreciate it more than expected.  It must be this sense of "old, old Florida" that is attractive to us.

Wed 11/14 and Thu 11/15/12
We left around 9:30 a.m. to cross Apalachicola Bay and head up the Carrabelle River to C-Quarters Marina.  Again, tides and lack of local knowledge would deter us from looking for anchorages.  In addition, the weather coming across the Bay was nasty.  The day was grey with some drizzle, cold, and bucking headwinds and waves: just miserable.  We reached C-Quarters Marina around 3:30 p.m.  with the high tide. The next morning, we saw what the River looks like during low tide.  Yikes!  there were exposed swaths, like islands, in the middle of the Carrabelle River.  A reminder to pay attention to the tides, even though the channel is well marked.

C-Quarters is within a block of ATM, good size grocery (IGA), an Ace Hardware  and a couple of blocks from a colorful coffeehouse and pharmacy.  The services at C-Quarters are good and everything is functioning. It looks like an old town hardware store with a front porch that looks out on the River.  Old timers gather to drink beer and tell tales.  What a great introduction to the farthest point on our journey, the farthest point east for this trip.  "Old, Old Florida" here refers to a defiantly individual corner of the U.S. and we have fully enjoyed it.

New Orleans to Florida II

Sat. 11/3/2012
Our friend Margie arrived for a couple of days of arts fest and sailing.  The Great Gulfcoast Arts Festival 2012 was good.  Compared to 2 yrs. ago when we happened to have sailed to Pensacola and encountered the Fest, it has really grown.  More arts and crafts vendors, food and entertainment options, and many more people, from the coastline and beyond.  Enjoy the pictures!

Sun. 11/4/2012
It was a sunny and mild day for sailing, which also meant mild and variable wind.  But it was great for enjoying the trampoline and deck areas.  Dolphins! and a leisurely lunch while playing with the sails (Capt. Mike's sport).  More home cooking, wine/beer and Cable. AVENTURA stood to the test of providing comfort for additional folks besides just us. Two cabins with queen size beds, only one head but large enough for a 6 ft. man to shower and move around, a good size salon with wrap around view, and a good size cockpit too, not to mention trampoline and other seating.  Oh, and the galley is quite sufficient.  We love our 37 ft. Lagoon.

Mon. 11/5/2012
Margie left and we had hoped to continue our trip eastward but the forecast was for heavy winds and sea.  Given a 58 ft. mast, we couldn't opt to use the Santa Rosa Sound (somewhat protected) all the way to Destin.  We would have had to make a run outside in the Gulf.  The trip would have been at least 10 hrs. with no place to take refuge if the weather deteriorated further. And Destin Harbor is tricky when there's  low visibility, low tide and poor conditions.  So we decided to stay another couple of nights playing tourist in Pensacola.

11/7/2012
We left for Destin at just after 7:00 a.m. hugging the coastline at not more than 2 mi. out so as to avoid fetch and under full sail (full 110% foresail and slightly reefed mainsail).  We have a Schaefer in-boom furling system that allows reefing at any point. And Capt. Mike decided to use the whisker pole to extend out the foresail since we had the wind on our back port quarter sometimes as much as 16 knots.  Boat speed reached 8.8 knots.  Very nice.  Along the way we passed Pensacola Beach, Navarre Beach and Fort Walton Beach, reaching Destin Harbor around 4:30 p.m. in time for the sunset.  Anchorage:  30 deg. 23.392 min. N, 86 deg. 29.747 min. W, a quieter spot on the lagoon.  Destin Harbor is known as a party town for its many  eateries, hotels and bars.

11/8/2012
We left again around 7:00 a.m. not being able to shake the numbness of an extremely cold night, in the 30's.  We headed for St. Andrew's Bay, which was another similar run as the day before:  50 NM along the coastline.  This time passing by Sandestin, Grayton Beach, Seaside, Seagrove, Rosemary Beach and Panama City Beach on the way.  We sailed into the wind, which is not the most favorable tack for Cats.  Winds exceeded 16 knots at times and we made 7.5 knots under sail only.  We entered St. Andrew's Bay and immediately turned into Grand Lagoon to anchor just off St. Andrew's State Park.   Position:  30 deg. 8.297 min. N, 85 deg. 40.244 min. W.

11/9/2012
Again we woke up to very chilly weather but it warmed up quickly, enough for us to lower our dinghy for a row over to the state park.  We visited an old turpentine still and walked a trail.  Then off to St. Joseph's Bay and Port St. Joe Marina, a favorite among sailors.  We motored the 35 NM to our destination with the wind directly ahead, managing around 5.5 knots and arriving around 3:30 p.m., which was really 4:30 p.m. Eastern Time.  We are really looking forward to this stopover. In addition, Port St. Joe represents the furthest point we have been since we began sailing the Gulf Coast.

New Orleans to Florida I

Mon 10/29/2012 We moved all the essentials onto AVENTURA and hunkered down in our marina for the night given heavy winds, choppy waters and cold weather that made us rethink when to depart. Good thing because we had a lovely evening/meal with our good friend George, our neighbor at the dock and proud Catamaran owner to boot. He lavished us with steaks for dinner and we shared wine plus great conversation until late.

Tue 10/30/2012 From Lake Pontchartrain we traveled through the Rigolets and out into the Gulf of Mexico's Mississippi Sound (ICW - Intercoastal Waterway)to the first island we could safely anchor at. Leaving at 8:45 a.m. we were able to drop the hook at Cat Is., MS near its northeastern edge (30 degrees 14.305 min N, 89 deg 03.816 min W) by 6:30 p.m.,in time for sunset. We had traveled 60 NM at speeds that sometimes reached 8 knots. Good speed, but we also had help from the following seas.

Wed 10/31/2012 Eager to move on, we pulled out before 8:00 a.m., hoping to reach Mobile Bay before evening. We chose to move outside the barrier islands of MS, out in the Gulf, in order to make better time. Of course, being out in the open Gulf in unprotected waters meant choppier seas. Once we got to the shipping lane between Dolphin Is. and Ft. Morgan, we headed into Mobile Bay. The winds and waves were increasing. We were carried by 14 knot winds. Overnighting in Mobile Bay did not seem a good option. So, we decided to continue our course and find protection within the Alabama Canal (ICW) which cuts through land between Mobile Bay and Pensacola Bay. By 9:00 p.m. we were anchored at Wolf Bay. In case you are considering a run like that (13 hrs), keep in mind that Mobile Bay is not lighted, and the Alabama Canal does have lighting but not consistently. We used flashlights to spot the unlighted markers and kept in line with the NOAA chart. Furthermore, we had help from the full moon. Wolf Bay proved to be an idealistic place to relax and recharge. A great way to spend Halloween! Anchorage: 30 deg 19.012 min N, 87 deg 35.430 min W.

 Thu 11/1/2012 We stayed anchored in Wolf Bay for a second night in order to enjoy a day of R&R. Relaxing, rowing around the Bay, enjoying a good nap and meals was the purpose. The only setback was when we took the dinghy out again. The idea was to go further in our exploration of the surroundings, therefore needing to use the motor. That only worked for all of 10 min. I'm confident Capt. Mike will figure out the problem and resolve it. Not withstanding the small inconvenience, this was an almost perfect day.

 Fri 11/2/202 We left around 9:00 a.m. for the 25 NM run to Pensacola Bay and Palafox Marina where we planned to spend a few nights. We had happened once before on the arts & crafts festival that takes place 5 blocks away at this time every year. And we wanted to enjoy it again. Plus our good friend Margie will be rendezvousing with us here for a couple of days on the boat, festival and all. We took our time traveling the Alabama Canal with its many attractive communities, crossing Perdido Bay and Big Lagoon on our way to Pensacola Bay. The weather was beautiful. Fishing, motor and sailing boats were out and about. People were flocking to the many beach fronts. Palafox Marina is a great marina with modern facilities and really good service. And a superb location downtown Pensacola and close to the Seville Park/quaint area which hosts the festival and attracts visitors. We arrived at Palafox at 1:30 p.m. and have been enjoying the marina's amenities throughout the afternoon, plus dinner at Jaco's overlooking the marina. It doesn't get better than this.

Mama and Friends on Pontchartrain Lake

What an incredible October day for sailing!  Temperatures in the upper 70's with clear skies, winds between 12 and 15 knots, speeds up to 7.2, and great company.  We are sailing our new (but old - year 1993) Jeaneau 37 ft. Lagoon TPI catamaran, Aventura, on Pontchartrain Lake, in the New Orleans area.  The Lake spans 25 mi. or so across and around 42 mi. wide.  It's a perfect boating lake with many interesting communities besides New Orleans itself, such as:  Slidell, Bayou Lacombe, Mandeville, and Madisonville, to name a few.  There's plenty to do on the Lake, but it's also very easy to get out into the Gulf of Mexico, just through the Rigolets.  And that's where Capt. Mike and myself, Gina, plan to slip off to in a couple of days.

In the meantime, we are enjoying a wonderful afternoon sail, sunset and all with three lovely guests:  Donatella,my mother (90 yrs. old), Pat and Mirella.  One of the wonderful feelings on a catamaran, or cat, is the stability and quicker speeds, especially when on a reach.  Another is the space, enough space to feel like you're in a condo.  Space in the cockpit for lounging, in the salon, and the deck, including trampoline and forward seat bucket.  And our group took full advantage of it.

Serious thinking people who put great effort into living properly deserve such breaks, don't you agree?

Sharon's Overnighter

One of the really neat features of a cat is its spaciousness when used as a "cabin on the water."  Mike and Gina had the pleasure of having Sharon, Mike's daughter, and her honey, Elliott, on board for an overnighter.  We left our marina in the late afternoon, mainly because the heat in New Orleans is already painful and sailed along the southern coast of Lake Pontchartrain to a section with a small beach.  This is just in front of the University of New Orleans.  The weather was fine, though the wind was a little too docile.  On the other hand, it made for a calm lake and great conditions for Sharon to try her hand at steering.

We got to watch a fantastic sunset, grill and dine in leisurely style, and then retire to  private cabins with queen-size beds.  This is one of the lessons of the sailing life:  enjoy nature, family and friends, away from the rat race and all the tensions that brings on.  Amen.

AVENTURA, our new catamaran

Bringing Aventura Home: As many times as we had sailed from Louisiana to Florida, you'd think bringing Aventura back from Pensacola to New Orleans would be an easy task. After all, we knew the passage, anchoring spots and marinas. Plus the weather was cooperating. But, one thing we know about sailing is that there are no givens. The four-day trip was packed with the unexpected. I guess naming our new (old) catamaran, a 37 Lagoon TPI, Aventura was asking for it! After polishing the fuel, getting the air bubbles out of one of the engines, we started off on Sat., April 7th in the afternoon. All fine crossing Pensacola Bay to the Alabama Canal and onward to Wolf Bay just off the Canal, for our first overnight. Raising the new-to-us boom furled mainsail was an interesting experience, and it went just fine. Anchoring at Wolf Bay in 10 ft. waters (our draft: 4 ft.), using a bridle and 35 lb. anchor went just fine. As usual we enjoyed the sounds and sights of nature's plenty: water, creatures, and distance from the industrial/tech environments we tend to live in. Sun., April 8th was Easter. Barge and other traffic while crossing Mobile Bay was minimal. We played with the sails, got a feel for best angles to the wind and other efficiencies. We crossed under the Dauphin Is. Bridge in the late afternoon, expecting to make Petit Bois Isl, MS for our next anchorage. Just west of the Bridge, with no warning at all, we suddenly lost steerage. What?! The depth meter read 12.9 ft. We were sure we hadn't seen crab traps. So we assumed something else had fouled the propeller(s). Something with enough weight to it where the boat didn't budge from where it lay just on the northern boundary of the channel. To make a long story short, we were grounded, at least the forward section of the starboard keel. The depth in the stern of the boat read 12.9 ft., and that is where the meter must be because at the bow we were hard aground an oyster bed in 3 ft. of water! After a fretful overnight with barge traffic menacing us, we finally broke loose around 9:30 a.m. next morning when the incoming tide provided us the lift needed. A good lesson for a sailing couple that had never run aground in 12 yrs. of sailing (with deeper keels, one must add). We made it to the western edge of Ship Is., MS for anchorage that evening ruminating on the experience that had gotten compounded by another "incident." The in-boom furling system failed us, or, rather, we failed it. So Mike struggled with the sail to bring it down and wrap it around the boom as best we could. Lesson #2 taught us that we must pay attention to the outhaul, batten placements along the boom and point of sail when raising the mainsail under this system. With much humility and joy we motored into South Shore Harbor Marina in New Orleans Tue., April 10th, greeted by our good friend and slip neighbor, George, who also has a catamaran (see http://sailgulfcoast.blogspot.com/2011/12/madisonville-boat-show-10-2011.html). Now our attention is on making this neat cat, Aventura, our new buddy on the waters.

Sailing The Gulf Coast

Sailing The Gulf Coast

What could  be more wonderful than to find a new boat!  Mike and Gina are getting ready to leave Island Cove Marina in Pensacola, FL where our new catamaran is harbored.  Aventura is a 37' Lagoon TPI (French but made in the U.S.).  At 20.3' wide, she promises to be more comfortable for our aging bones as well as just enough space for entertaining.  She has 2 queen berths and a single.  The salon offers great views; the cockpit serves as an extension to the sitting and dining area.  If we keep her light, we most certainly sail more swiftly than on our older Pearson 365 (up for sale), maybe 7 knots in fair weather and more in brisker winds. 

So we're prepping her now for the voyage back to New Orleans, our home port.  Look forward to our many adventures to follow.  Aventura:  "adventure" in the romance languages, and easy to understand in English.