New Orleans to Port St. Joe - Nov 2010 - Part IV

11/20/10. One beautiful bay after another! Passing through them all we realized it would be hard to choose one over the others. St. Joseph Bay, St. Andrew’s Bay, Choctawhatchee Bay, Pensacola Bay, and Perdido Bay all were lovely in their own way and had special features. The weather and schedules are the only factors limiting our time in each one. It just means there’s plenty to explore the next times around.

We left St. Andrew’s Bay before 7:30 a.m. We weren’t sure of passage conditions, changes in weather, and how good the anchorage we had selected would turn out. After the “excitement” at Destin Harbor - the challenges of risky depths, unlighted markers, and arriving when dark - we wanted to make sure we entered the new (to us) anchorage at Rocky Bayou early enough. Plus we wanted to enjoy the sunset before turning in for the night. Winds were NE closer to 15 kts. and it was cold. We passed under the Hathaway Bridge into the ICW which first part is a rather large bay (West Bay) and then becomes a narrow canal (around 20 nm), which locals affectionately call “the ditch.” At the end we entered into Choctawatchee Bay, got to the approximate midway point just past the bridge that connects the north shore to Destin, and took a turn to starboard toward the northern banks where two bayous offer purportedly good anchorages. We made our way up Rocky Bayou to its northwestern section and anchored in 9-10 ft. of water. The 50 nm run on that day was worth it. And we got to enjoy the sunset in an ideal setting. There are probably hundreds of pretty bayous along the northern Gulf Coast. This one was tranquil, with unassuming residences dotting the shoreline, close enough to Destin, but far enough to preserve its uniqueness and naturalness. Highly recommended. Our coordinates just in case: N 30° 30.615’ and W 86° 27.226’.

The next challenge was to clear the Ft. Walton (Brooks) Bridge the next day. Reports had it as 49.9’ give or take 0.6” for the tides. Our 47’ mast + some for the antenna and Windex meant we would just make it, and we did. But it was a little bit of tension as we neared and then cleared, followed by exhilaration once through it. At that point we had crossed Choctawhatchee Bay and had entered the Sta. Rosa Sound (ICW) that would take us to Pensacola Bay and beyond. Since we had traveled outside in the Gulf on the way to Port St. Joe, the return trip was to include the inland route for variety’s sake. Had we not been able to clear the infamous Bridge, we would have had to return to St. Andrew’s Bay and go out into the Gulf. The bridge at Destin that leads to the Gulf is even lower than the one at Ft. Walton. No way.

Sta. Rosa Sound is even more enjoyable than “the ditch” because it has quite a few communities, boats, and a few marinas along the way. We went under the 50’ Navarre Bridge and then finally the Pensacola Bridge that connects Gulf Breeze to Pensacola Beach. Right past that Bridge, above Red 142, is a good anchorage at Grassy Point. It was 48 nm from Rocky Bayou to Grassy Point, and we made it in time for the sunset again. Coordinates: N 30° 21.035’ and W 87° 10.014’.

We had had good weather the day of travel to Grassy Point, but it promptly deteriorated the next day when we were to cross Pensacola Bay (which seems to be often choppy) and enter the Alabama Canal (ICW). SE 10-15 Kts. was predicted, but it felt like at least 15 kts. as Talisman hit the waves. We had let out the genoa and began motoring but soon had to furl the sail up again. We could see Pensacola and the general area where Palafox Marina is. That was a great experience (see previous posting).

Entering Perdido Bay was like coming home. We had seen it before both in last year’s trip to this area and the current trip going to Port St. Joe. We decided to stop at Bear Point Marina, located at Mill Point at the beginning of the Alabama Canal. We were here last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. There’s a live-aboard community, which is very lively. The way the boat slips are situated adds to the sense of community. The atmosphere is laid back. The restaurant, Flippers, is decent and has great views, as does the Marina. On a good day, one can dinghy over to the other side of the Canal where Pirate’s Cove is for its famous hamburgers and entertainment.

So we’re feeling like home, also knowing the real home and Thanksgiving are awaiting us in New Orleans, a few nights away.