LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part II

Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part II)

Sun 5/31. Mike felt rested (see Part I), as the wind did not pick up during the night and Talisman was well protected from the NW winds by our position east of Sand Island. The water was calm, the beach, ½ mi. away, shone with its fine, white sand. I couldn’t help noticing the contrast between Pascagoula’s petrochemical complex (in sight) and this simple, totally natural environment. Surely those folks who are tied to work in the industrial city of Pascagoula must escape as often as possible to the natural calm and simple beauty of Petit Bois. Even on a Sunday morning, motorboats and some sailboats were arriving or had spent the night.

After a quick swim for Mike, we studied the charts and decided to make way toward the other side of Mobile Bay, a peninsula type land mass called Mobile Point. There stands Ft. Morgan, and there seemed to be some anchoring spots near enough to shore. We were expecting light NE winds, somewhat variable, and then veering N sometime during the night. Another sailor had recommended it to us as backup.

From Petit Bois we would be passing Dauphin Island to enter Mobile Bay and would probably make it over to Ft. Morgan by late afternoon. Late afternoon is a desirable ETA because it gives us a chance to find good anchorage, rest, freshen up, admire the sunset with wine or beer or other, and dinner.

However, getting there was not as interesting as previous days. Maybe the presence of so many oil platforms was disconcerting. Talisman plodded along at less than 5 kts., and wind direction didn’t favor using the spinnaker. Too bad. It would have made for a more interesting day of travel. We ended up motoring most of the way.

Dauphin Is. is split in two, with the western part completely uninhabited and the eastern one on its way to full development. We had been to Dauphin Is. before by land. It’s roughly a 45 min. detour from Mobile City and connected to the mainland by a good 85 ft. bridge. The Island has an older part that conserves its greenery and old town charm, and the newer portions that are so developed that not a bush or plant can be seen. Why do developers love to level everything in sight? Don’t they know that the 85+° weather over several months of the year along the Gulf Coast make it suicidal to be without shade?

Anchorage about 1 mi. from Ft. Morgan and ½ mi. offshore proved to be just fine. Dropping the hook was easy. We settled into a gorgeous sunset and a great meal (couscous with chicken and spinach). We were even lucky enough to get cell phone connection, which provided the extra treat of contacting family and friends. We watched the frequent ferry arrivals and departures from Ft. Morgan to/from the east side of Dauphin Is. The woods and the coastline were also attractive. The only two problems with anchoring in that area are: a jungle of crab traps that would prove vexing the next day during departure; and, the oil platforms (Mike counted 9 in the general area we occupied). In fact, the next morning, an alarm went off at one of the platforms and did not cease for the next 2 ½ hrs. Needless to say, we prepared for departure faster than usual. I guess one becomes sensitive to what sounds are permissible when enjoying nature (and sailing).

Mon. 6/1. After breakfast we weighed anchor and departed. We weren’t sure what our next stopover would be. We only knew where we were headed. The ICW crosses Mobile Bay and then cuts through land on the way to Perdido Bay and finally to Pensacola Bay. It is affectionately referred to as “the ditch” or the “Alabama Canal” as it snakes its way through the area. Alabama Canal is my choice because “the ditch” does not conjure up the lovely images we saw along the way and that have stayed with us.

Somewhere around 5 mi. into the Alabama Canal we passed the first bridge (probably 85 ft.) after which we saw Lulu’s Restaurant immediately on the port side. Everyone we’ve talked to says, “you gotta try Lulu’s.” But it wasn’t in the cards this time around. It was after lunch and too early for dinner. We’d just have to catch it some other time. We knew it would be good given all the hoopla about it, and we had eaten several times at her brother’s restaurant, Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, in New Orleans. Anyway, we did get fuel and filled the water tanks at Homeport Marina, which includes Lulu’s on its premises, before continuing on.

The shores on both sides along the Alabama Canal were lined with trees, individuals fishing, and regular traffic of sailboats, motorboats and some commercial as well. Around 3 mi. after Lulu’s we passed under the second bridge (around 65 ft.). The Wharf was immediately after the bridge on our starboard side. It definitely was a surprise and seemed somewhat out of place: so shopping center-like with its tall buildings and retail fronts. I guess in a pinch we’d have to stop there, but not as a first choice. We were enjoying the older, quainter look of the Canal up to this point.

The next few miles showed us small communities of lovely homes and their boats on the Canal. The entrance to Wolf River lay to our port side, and that’s where our sailing buddies wanted to stay. But we preferred to press on and see more before deciding where we'd overnight. We passed the new and large Barber Marina on the north side of the Canal, and the entrance to Ingram Bayou, the must-experience area that sailors recommend strongly, which was just past it. We made a promise to catch it on the way back.

For now we wanted to find a way to provision Talisman. We called Pirate’s Cove Restaurant, which we’d find just beyond the next bend on our port side. With only a 4.5 ft. draft, we figured it would be plausible to tie up at the Restaurant’s pier, eat and find a way to a grocery store. Yes, we could tie up without any difficulty. There was plenty of room and the depth was permissible on the right side of the pier. However, there was no grocery nearby. So we called Bear Point Marina, just across the Canal on the south side. It had also been recommended by another sailor who had recently been there.

Bear Point Marina had been damaged by the string of storms and hurricanes in 2004 and 2005. But they were up and running again. Not only were their rates for overnight stays half of what others were asking (including the usual services of water, electricity, bath/shower, Internet connection, etc.), but also they offered a ride to a nearby grocery store, a Publix. The restaurant at the Marina looked inviting (Flippers), there was the needed dock store, everyone had a good attitude, and we discovered a very friendly live aboard community.

This was not a hard decision to make. We looked at each other and said, “let’s rent a slip for tonight.” What the heck: it was time for a little relaxation, air conditioning, Internet, and chatting it up with all these experienced sailors! And that’s what we did, except that one night turned into three. There’s a reason why, besides enjoyment. Stay tuned for Part III.