Gina Nadas and Mike Sibley are married, retired, and sailors. Their plans to make the U.S. Gulf Coast their playground are unfolding. You are invited to follow their journey, make comments, and offer recommendations. Who knows, you might contribute winning strategies!
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Changing out the fuel tanks on Talisman
Why haven't we been cruising lately? The most obvious answer is that it's so infernally hot and muggy along the Gulf Coast. Besides it's storm/hurricane season, and today's the anniversary of the last horrific storm to hit New Orleans. Hurricane Katrina.
We might have tried to sail at night or make small trips in and around Pontchartrain Lake, but as it turns out, we found we would have to change out the fuel tanks. Mike has done a superb job of adding life to our handsome, aging gracefully sailboat. (Might that refer to us too? Surely hope so.) I, for one, am looking forward to our next sailing adventure.
Here's Mike's account of the tank replacement project:
PART I
Removal of the Old Steel Fuel Tank
I recently removed the 50 gallon steel fuel tank from Talisman, my wife’s and my 1979 Pearson 365 sailboat, in preparation for the installation of two new replacement tanks. As this is a task that is faced sooner or later by many boat owners, a description of the process is provided here for the adventurous do-it-yourselfers. Of course, one might wonder why one would ever need to replace a fuel tank. The answer is that all metal fuel tanks are subject to corrosion and eventually start leaking. Many start to leak after only a few years while others last a lot longer. Also, they all eventually accumulate lots of crud in the bottom of the tank that is often hard to remove and may clog the fuel filter (and prevent the engine from working) when it gets stirred up in choppy water.
One alternative I considered was to pull the engine and remove the old tank through the passageway. Then it could be replaced by a single tank of equal size, installed through the passageway. After receiving a cost estimate for this approach, I decided on a different approach. I cut the existing tank in half, removed the pieces through the cockpit lockers, and replaced it with two tanks, each half as wide as the original. The smaller tanks were installed through the cockpit locker, thus saving the cost of engine removal. Actually, it is not as big a job as I had feared. The removal of the old tank can be completed by a single person in a single day if you are well organized.
The first job was to remove as much fuel from the tank as possible. I disconnected the fuel hose where it attaches to the primary fuel filter and used an electric fuel pump to transfer the fuel into five gallon fuel cans. It is best if the tank is less than half full before beginning.
When I emptied as much fuel as I could, I poured in a gallon of degreaser and a gallon of water. I know that diesel is less easy to ignite than gasoline, but I didn’t want any unpleasant surprises. I then siphoned out a small amount of the mixture and tried to ignite it with a BernzOmatic torch. It failed to ignite, so I began cutting.
My old tank had a single baffle running perpendicular to the centerline. This seems to be common for tanks of similar size. The first step was to cut out two rectangular sections on each side of the tank, one before the baffle and the other after. I cut these sections as large as possible to afford maximum access to the inside of the tank. I used a reciprocating saw with a heavy duty bimetal blade with 14 teeth per inch. The tank was made of 0.125 mill steel, but cutting went quite fast. Once the sides are opened up, the remaining fuel mixture can be removed with a plastic scoop or a cup and a few wads of paper towel.
The next step was to cut the baffle in half. Using the openings already cut in the sides of the tank, I cut to the center of the baffle from each side. Due to obstructions and cramped space in my boat, the front and back walls of the tank were most easily cut with the saw inside the tank. Again, I started from each side and cut to the center.
Once the tank is cut in half horizontally, the top half was removed through the port cockpit locker. The bottom half was a little trickier for one person to get out, but it can be done. After removing the tank, be sure to vacuum up all the small metal pieces so they don’t leave rust spots.
Why did I do all this? The old tank was 30 years old. Although it wasn’t leaking, I assumed that it was living on borrowed time and I didn’t want to worry about it starting to leak in the middle of a cruise. However, when I removed the tank and inspected it, I didn’t find any part that looked to be on the verge of failure. It was, however, extremely dirty inside. Would I undertake this project if I knew then what I know now? I think so, even though the tank didn’t appear to be on the verge of leaking. In any case, I am looking forward to completely clean new tanks and the added flexibility that a two-tank system affords.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
The S/V Veranda Shares Their Stories
Its more than just sunsets and cocktails out on the Veranda
http://veranda422.blogspot.com/
Bill and Christy have sailed the Eastern Coast all the way to the Bahamas over a two-year period. You will definitely enjoy their accounts of adventure, neat destinations, socializing with other mariners, incredible pictures, fishing acumen, and much, much more. What a world of experience they pack into their blog.
Maybe we, from the Gulf Coast, and they, from the East Coast, will meet up someday in the Florida Keys or Bahamas. Who says life is boring!
So, get your favorite refreshment and sit down for a fantastic read.
After that you might decide to pitch in with comments, stories, pictures or other. I certainly hope so. Conversation is good.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Your views, your stories?
Tell us about your sailboat, crew, time of year, highlights, lessons learned, or anything else that comes to mind.
Mike and I are learning, and we want to make friends.
Really. We'd love to hear from you!
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part IV
Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part IV)
Fri 6/5. Blue Herons and Dolphins accompanied my yoga. Ingram Bayou was a serene and beautiful hideaway. No wonder so many recommend it! We were not that motivated to leave for the return trip to New Orleans, our home. Our friends were still resting when we weighed our muddy anchor and set off. Weather reports on the VHF advised of gusty winds close to 20 kts. directly on our bow. No use trying to sail on the Alabama Canal, but we expected to reach Mobile Bay in a couple of hours and then decide on sailing options. As we slid past the Canal entrance to the Bay, we were attracted once more by Sailboat Bay with its appealing condos and boat slips. Now that we knew how charming the Lower Alabama neighborhoods were, the condos seemed strategically located for easy access to places we admired both East and West. Who knows? Must keep one’s options open.
Mobile Bay welcomed us with winds WNW at 15-20kts. and waves 3+ ft. Mike raised a reefed main, and we motorsailed bumpily across to the Dauphin Is. Bridge on the other side of the Bay at 5.5 kts. against the wind. We passed Dauphin Is. and Petit Bois, heading for Horn Is., where we had not been and yearned to try. Given the wind direction and speed, that had not let up all day, we decided to try the south side of the Island facing the Gulf. Our charts showed reasonable depths of 12-16 ft. just ½ mi. offshore. Mike dropped 70 ft. of chain and another 5 of rode for added safety just in case. We expected winds to veer toward North and quiet to 5-10 kts. for the night. Perfect for a comfortable evening and sleep.
The sun was setting when we dropped the hook, and the panorama was great. Horn Is. was quite attractive, with woods throughout the Island, fine white sand beaches, and very little boat traffic, at least on its southern shore. We basically had a stretch of 2-3 mi. all to ourselves, it seemed.
Sat 6/6. Just after breakfast, we headed eagerly for the shore. We rowed the dinghy in and lifted it up on the bank. Walking along the shoreline, we saw sand crabs that scattered rapidly as we approached, stingrays, and then came upon what seemed to be the skeletal remains of a wooden boat. The Park Service must have cordoned it off, and there it lay on the sand for all to see and wonder the when and how of this probable shipwreck.
Out of nowhere, it seemed, a bikini-clad woman came into view as she briskly walked the beach. We approached her to ask some questions about Horn Is. and found she was friendly and informative. She said it was best we not enter the woods, given the pesky sand flies and, oh no, snakes. That was enough to distance me! She and her husband, who was fishing at some point along the shore, would “escape” to the Island often from Biloxi. “Only a 15 min. ride,” she affirmed. Maybe they actually flew over the water, as many boaters seem to do from the Mississippi coastline to the islands and back. Maybe it was slight exaggeration. It reminded us that we had chosen sailing for other reasons rather than speed. But at times we would also want to get away or get to the islands fast. Ah, so many tradeoffs.
The sun was climbing in the sky, and we went for a good swim to cool off. The temperature of the water was deliciously cool. And what clear waters. This visit to Horn Is. would prove to be memorable.
After lunch we set out for Cat Island, the last of the string of sizeable islands off the Mississippi Coast on the way to the Rigolets. A stopover at Cat Is. would mean that we would have completed visits to the must-see islands off the Mississippi coast (from East to West in this order): Petit Bois, Horn, Ship and Cat.
We wanted to find anchorage at Smugglers Cove on the southeast end of the Island, but our 4.5 ft. keel would have put us at a couple of miles off shore where the predicted SW winds could pick up. So, we cozied up to a spot about ½ mi. off the eastern side of the Island.
It was evident by the many boats that dotted the shoreline that this side of Cat Is. is quite popular. The sun was setting when we dropped anchor. Once again we admired a beautiful sunset, with dolphins, pelicans and seagulls playing in the vicinity. Maybe Nature knew that we were sadly nearing the end of our trip and wanted to give us an extra treat.
Sun 6/7. Continuing the search for new overnighters, we passed through the Rigolets and into Lake Pontchartrain but passed up our usual stopping point, Oak Harbor, Slidell. This had been our entrance and exit point for several trips, but we decided to shoot for Mandeville, LA. We were able to hoist the spinnaker for some good sailing (not motorsailing) for a few hours until we reached Mandeville.
This city on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain has some special charm. There are lots of marinas, but the public dock is available for overnighters, and there are power outlets that mostly work. Lakeshore Drive that runs parallel to the Lake is a promenade for dogs and their owners, couples, families and those who are looking to exercise by walking, biking or running. There are nice views, and at least ½ dozen eating spots within walking distance too. After registering our stay at the public dock with the beautiful, rebuilt (after Hurricane Katrina) Pontchartrain Yacht Club, we strolled to a restaurant and then turned in for the night.
Mon 6/8. Our last day was spent getting back to the Tchefuncte River and our marina. We experienced what, it seems, many sailors do: a desire to continue the cruising adventure tempered by a desire to get home to feel at-home with the accompanying routines. Unless we were to move onboard, we would probably continue to have those conflicting feelings into the future. For now we felt satiated and said “so long” to Talisman, with a “we’ll go out soon again.”
Summary:
• We have now visited the Mississippi islands we read and hear about (for sailors): Cat, Ship, Horn and Petit Bois
• Lower Alabama via the Alabama Canal (or “the ditch,” or Alabama ICW) is delightful with plenty of options. We haven't exhausted them all yet.
• The weather was not a problem, though we would have wanted to sail more, rather than motor or motor/sail
• Next trip should get us to the Florida Panhandle and maybe beyond.
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part III
Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part III)
Tue 6/2. The weather was supposed to be very hot, in the low 90’s. Hey, this is only the beginning of June! What will it be like along the Gulf Coast during July and August, we wondered. T-storms out of the west were predicted for the following several days. We would probably have a decent day but the buildup would mean rain for sure by the early evening. We decided to stay an extra night at Bear Point Marina and dedicate ourselves to wallowing in the pleasantries of our new neighborhood. Not difficult at all. Besides, who’s on a schedule? Cruising is supposed to be about loosening the grip of past habits and demands. Etc., etc. And let’s not get started on that, for now.
The best way to explore the neighborhood is with the dinghy, we agreed. We wanted to get a closer look at Pirates Cove Restaurant and Roberts Bayou just across the way. And, maybe we could take a swim and admire other landscapes around there. A refreshing dip in the clear waters of the Canal would also be desirable given the direct, relentless heat of the Southern sun.
Pirates Cove faces the ICW and has sufficient pier for several boats to tie up. It was evident that patrons motored in regularly for the famous hamburgers, family time and a small natural beach for kids to romp around in. Entering the channel to Roberts Bayou was easy by daylight since the markers are clear, but we probably would have had our doubts by night. Nonetheless, despite appearances, even sizeable boats with deeper keels were nestled everywhere we looked in the coves we saw behind the restaurant. Roberts Bayou was delightful. I couldn’t get enough, as you will/have noticed in the slideshow. This neck of the woods is next door to Perdido Bay and accessible to Mobile Bay’s east shore towns of Fairhope, Daphne, Foley and others. It certainly made my mouth water. Who knows…
We continued making our way along the coastline and stopped where we had a view of the Canal on a lonely strip of “beach.” After some munchies and a cool swim, we crossed over the Canal and headed back the long way, taking our dinghy in close to shore to see the enticing homes and their boats.
As mentioned before, the live aboard cruisers at the Marina were just as nice as can be. One couple offered us a ride to the grocery a few miles away. I got the fresh goods we’d need for the next 5 days (which is what we can accommodate onboard Talisman). And, they entertained me with their accounts of travels to Venezuela and other parts of the Caribbean. Now their Morgan was parked at the Marina while they worked day jobs. But who knows for how long. It seems that, once you taste the good life, you always look forward to your next trip, when you can again break away from conventional life for as long as the funds hold out. They were probably in their 50’s but still going strong.
Another couple we met had sold their farm and their belongings in Texas. They were probably in their 40’s and whose grown son also loved sailing. This couple bought an Island Packet, moved onboard, and was making their way to Florida and the eastern Caribbean. This is not unusual amongst sailors. And, what pleasant and interesting people! Everyone at the Marina, whether sailor or staff, was great. Even teenagers seem to do well, and that’s a lot to ask for. Maybe it’s the saner, healthier environment of Nature that puts things in perspective for humans.
And, by the way, the food at Flippers Restaurant on site was very satisfactory, and the views, enchanting.
Wed 6/3. The weather was deteriorating. Heading west would have meant heading directly into the storms. Why not stay another night? We decided to do just that and spend the day cleaning, charging up equipment, checking on weather reports and so forth.
Meantime, we spoke with our sailing buddies on the s/v Candida. They were anchored in Wolf River. We would connect with them around Ingram Bayou where Mike and I planned to spend the next night.
Thu 6/4. Long necked herons accompanied my yoga. Everything looked refreshed after the all-night rains. We left Bear Point Marina and pointed toward Ingram Bayou, across the way and a few miles west. The entrance is easy to pass up. Just remember that it is on the east side of Barber Marine.
Once in we were met with a very pretty sight, and we weren’t the only ones admiring the scenery. Several sailboats, including a Cat, and one house boat occupied the area just inside the entrance channel. That’s where depths are reasonable (7-9 ft.). Beyond there, depths dropped off to 5 ft. or less. Ingram Bayou is very nice (different but not nicer than the Tchefuncte River, LA from where we hailed), with rich foliage, lots of birds, and frequent visits of dolphins. And clean, fresh water, perfect for a swim.
Our friends showed up and decided to overnight. So they rowed over in their dinghy (Bubba the cat stayed to protect the boat). We chatted and caught up, as well as revisited the inevitable events that occur when one is cruising (see Part I). Luckily Talisman didn’t have a breakdown of any kind. The engine was leaking fuel, and Mike had jury rigged a container to catch most of the diesel (taking care of that and a rusted 30-yr. old fuel tank will be the subject of a posting by Mike in the near future).
Mike and I took a dip in the Bayou. Oh, how refreshing! That, a nap, and dinner with our friends on Talisman made for a luxurious afternoon and evening. Good company, fabulous sights, and even the threatening cloud buildup and thunder were part of the fun.
Phil and Karen were going to leave for Pensacola the next day, and we would be pointing in the opposite direction toward New Orleans. Mike and I experienced a twinge of envy. Could we instead follow them to new and different places, rather than head home? Not this time, unfortunately. But soon we would be back and give in to that urge to push the envelope further: Pensacola, Panama City and beyond the Florida Panhandle.
Our trip wasn’t over. We would experience new places on the way back to New Orleans: Horn and Cat islands. Stay tuned for the final leg of this trip. Those islands and getting there added a lot to our total experience!
Wednesday, June 24, 2009
LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part II
Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part II)
Sun 5/31. Mike felt rested (see Part I), as the wind did not pick up during the night and Talisman was well protected from the NW winds by our position east of Sand Island. The water was calm, the beach, ½ mi. away, shone with its fine, white sand. I couldn’t help noticing the contrast between Pascagoula’s petrochemical complex (in sight) and this simple, totally natural environment. Surely those folks who are tied to work in the industrial city of Pascagoula must escape as often as possible to the natural calm and simple beauty of Petit Bois. Even on a Sunday morning, motorboats and some sailboats were arriving or had spent the night.
After a quick swim for Mike, we studied the charts and decided to make way toward the other side of Mobile Bay, a peninsula type land mass called Mobile Point. There stands Ft. Morgan, and there seemed to be some anchoring spots near enough to shore. We were expecting light NE winds, somewhat variable, and then veering N sometime during the night. Another sailor had recommended it to us as backup.
From Petit Bois we would be passing Dauphin Island to enter Mobile Bay and would probably make it over to Ft. Morgan by late afternoon. Late afternoon is a desirable ETA because it gives us a chance to find good anchorage, rest, freshen up, admire the sunset with wine or beer or other, and dinner.
However, getting there was not as interesting as previous days. Maybe the presence of so many oil platforms was disconcerting. Talisman plodded along at less than 5 kts., and wind direction didn’t favor using the spinnaker. Too bad. It would have made for a more interesting day of travel. We ended up motoring most of the way.
Dauphin Is. is split in two, with the western part completely uninhabited and the eastern one on its way to full development. We had been to Dauphin Is. before by land. It’s roughly a 45 min. detour from Mobile City and connected to the mainland by a good 85 ft. bridge. The Island has an older part that conserves its greenery and old town charm, and the newer portions that are so developed that not a bush or plant can be seen. Why do developers love to level everything in sight? Don’t they know that the 85+° weather over several months of the year along the Gulf Coast make it suicidal to be without shade?
Anchorage about 1 mi. from Ft. Morgan and ½ mi. offshore proved to be just fine. Dropping the hook was easy. We settled into a gorgeous sunset and a great meal (couscous with chicken and spinach). We were even lucky enough to get cell phone connection, which provided the extra treat of contacting family and friends. We watched the frequent ferry arrivals and departures from Ft. Morgan to/from the east side of Dauphin Is. The woods and the coastline were also attractive. The only two problems with anchoring in that area are: a jungle of crab traps that would prove vexing the next day during departure; and, the oil platforms (Mike counted 9 in the general area we occupied). In fact, the next morning, an alarm went off at one of the platforms and did not cease for the next 2 ½ hrs. Needless to say, we prepared for departure faster than usual. I guess one becomes sensitive to what sounds are permissible when enjoying nature (and sailing).
Mon. 6/1. After breakfast we weighed anchor and departed. We weren’t sure what our next stopover would be. We only knew where we were headed. The ICW crosses Mobile Bay and then cuts through land on the way to Perdido Bay and finally to Pensacola Bay. It is affectionately referred to as “the ditch” or the “Alabama Canal” as it snakes its way through the area. Alabama Canal is my choice because “the ditch” does not conjure up the lovely images we saw along the way and that have stayed with us.
Somewhere around 5 mi. into the Alabama Canal we passed the first bridge (probably 85 ft.) after which we saw Lulu’s Restaurant immediately on the port side. Everyone we’ve talked to says, “you gotta try Lulu’s.” But it wasn’t in the cards this time around. It was after lunch and too early for dinner. We’d just have to catch it some other time. We knew it would be good given all the hoopla about it, and we had eaten several times at her brother’s restaurant, Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville, in New Orleans. Anyway, we did get fuel and filled the water tanks at Homeport Marina, which includes Lulu’s on its premises, before continuing on.
The shores on both sides along the Alabama Canal were lined with trees, individuals fishing, and regular traffic of sailboats, motorboats and some commercial as well. Around 3 mi. after Lulu’s we passed under the second bridge (around 65 ft.). The Wharf was immediately after the bridge on our starboard side. It definitely was a surprise and seemed somewhat out of place: so shopping center-like with its tall buildings and retail fronts. I guess in a pinch we’d have to stop there, but not as a first choice. We were enjoying the older, quainter look of the Canal up to this point.
The next few miles showed us small communities of lovely homes and their boats on the Canal. The entrance to Wolf River lay to our port side, and that’s where our sailing buddies wanted to stay. But we preferred to press on and see more before deciding where we'd overnight. We passed the new and large Barber Marina on the north side of the Canal, and the entrance to Ingram Bayou, the must-experience area that sailors recommend strongly, which was just past it. We made a promise to catch it on the way back.
For now we wanted to find a way to provision Talisman. We called Pirate’s Cove Restaurant, which we’d find just beyond the next bend on our port side. With only a 4.5 ft. draft, we figured it would be plausible to tie up at the Restaurant’s pier, eat and find a way to a grocery store. Yes, we could tie up without any difficulty. There was plenty of room and the depth was permissible on the right side of the pier. However, there was no grocery nearby. So we called Bear Point Marina, just across the Canal on the south side. It had also been recommended by another sailor who had recently been there.
Bear Point Marina had been damaged by the string of storms and hurricanes in 2004 and 2005. But they were up and running again. Not only were their rates for overnight stays half of what others were asking (including the usual services of water, electricity, bath/shower, Internet connection, etc.), but also they offered a ride to a nearby grocery store, a Publix. The restaurant at the Marina looked inviting (Flippers), there was the needed dock store, everyone had a good attitude, and we discovered a very friendly live aboard community.
This was not a hard decision to make. We looked at each other and said, “let’s rent a slip for tonight.” What the heck: it was time for a little relaxation, air conditioning, Internet, and chatting it up with all these experienced sailors! And that’s what we did, except that one night turned into three. There’s a reason why, besides enjoyment. Stay tuned for Part III.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
LA - MS - AL Trip May - June 09 PART I
Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part I)
Thu. 5-28. After overnighting at Madisonville, LA, we left at a decent hour heading toward Eden Isles, in the Slidell area. There was hope and excitement in our newbie hearts. After all, we would be facing a new challenge -- new places and a longer trip aboard Talisman, our Pearson 365 ketch. Would we meet the physical challenges that Nature seems to throw at everyone with seeming glee? Would we be able to solve boat functionality problems along the way? Were we well provisioned? Etc. Etc.
We tied Talisman up at Phil’s dock in the late afternoon. This is our new friend that we had visited days before so we could meet the other sailing buddies. It would be a loose group of boats sailing east. We met Karen, Phil’s friend and sailing partner, and a lively discussion ensued about anything relevant to sailing and the upcoming trip. They would be gone longer; we had a definite schedule.
Fri. 5-29. We all left early with the objective of making it to Ship Island off the coast of Mississippi by sundown. This time we took a different route than the last trip Mike and I had taken. As we approached Cat Island after exiting the Rigolets and a portion of the Mississippi Sound, we came around its south side, rather than by the north. It seemed quicker and less crowded, and it provided a better wind direction for sailing purposes. We tried our spinnaker and new sock along the way and realized it lent some efficiency to raising, lowering and handling the spinnaker in light wind.
Finally we all made our destination just around sunset. We had planned on anchoring at the Northwest side of the Island near the pier, but the increasing seas and NW winds made us question the sanity of our objective. Nonetheless, Mike dropped our 35 lb. Delta anchor at about the same spot we had used before (see past trip). But the seas were increasing and we had to question whether the anchor might slip and we’d find ourselves in 2-4 ft. of water. The 24 ft. depth quickly changes to 2-4 ft. within a few hundred feet. So we weighed in the anchor and dropped it again in a spot that was slightly further from shore, though vulnerable to the NW winds and waves that picked up after sunset.
Our friends’ boat, Candida, also experienced problems. Phil and Karen rowed over to us with a bottle of wine, and I was busily preparing a pasta dinner as a good conclusion for a long day. But, alas, that was not in the cards. We happened to look toward Candida and noticed with horror that it was moving toward shore and the 2-4 ft. shallows! After that, there was no relief for Phil, Karen and Candida. And, so much for dinner and company. They weighed and dropped hook several times in the night. While Mike and I stayed put with our GPS tracking any dragging of the anchor, Phil and Karen finally took off for the Mississippi coast late in the night. However, we didn't know and wouldn't find out until much later the next day.
Sat. 5-30. Next day, I emerged from below with yoga mat in tow after an uncomfortable sleep (too much rocking of the boat). Where is Candida? We tried to radio them but no answer. Bad cell phone connection also made it difficult to track them down. In the meantime we heard a call for assistance from “a vessel in the Ship Island northwest corner.” Could it be Candida? But why couldn’t we see it? What we could see was a smaller sailboat dangerously near shore and next to the pier. As it turned out, that was not a good thing. We had seen the small boat being repositioned the evening before, as had occurred with the other boats in the vicinity. That story ended better than expected when the Coast Guard, one of the Mississippi services, and a private towing company came to its rescue, and the boat was “unstuck” within a few hours.
We took Talisman around to the south side after breakfast, awaiting word from Candida. It was beautiful, serene and the Gulf was calm. We could have kicked ourselves in the you-know-where that we hadn’t moved over there the night before.
Anyway, we lazed away for several hours before heading to Petit Bois (many pronounce it “Petibo”). We had called Phil and Karen, got the scoop on their midnight escape and discussed where we would meet up next. So, we decided to rendezvous about midway across on the north side of Petit Bois around sunset. Winds were light from the N/NE. We made our way following the coastline, a mile or so below Ship Island, passing Horn Island (which we would visit on the return trip) before reaching our destination. We planned to round up at Petit Bois Channel, which is an extension of the Pascagoula Channel, to meet our friends on the north side.
It was interesting and relaxing to view the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico and avoid the heavy commercial traffic of the ICW. Beaches, birds, dolphins, fishing boats, and a sailboat or two were the only sights.
The channels in between the barrier islands have to be adhered to simply because tides, winds and other natural phenomena tend to create sandbars right and left, and they don’t show up on the charts. By the time your depth sounder spots them, it’s probably too late. So, we kept well within the channel, though ships and barges out of Pascagoula were of the enormous type, and the channel was fairly narrow at this juncture. In fact, we kept still at the sidelines at one point to let a megaton ship plow its way through and waited some more for its significant following wave action to subside. Whew!
Yes, we made it to our rendezvous point on Petit Bois and dropped anchor. But again, the wind was blowing out of the N/NW and we were not confident the anchor would hold in this terrain and in this unprotected spot. So, we weighed anchor and proceeded to the northwestern corner of the Island. Sand Island, a small island just slightly Northwest of us, seemed to offer some protection were the winds to pick up. And we noticed another sailboat in the vicinity, though it seemed a little too snuggled up to the shore for our sense of caution. Better to be overly cautious than end up in the shallows like the boat from the night before, we said. That lesson stayed fresh in our minds.
In the meantime, no sign of our friends. Luckily, we had cell phone access (kind of iffy on the islands). They decided to stay put at their getaway on the coast. Could we meet there at Petit Bois the next day? Well, that depends. It depends on whether the wanderlust gets the best of us. After all, we had a limited window of time, and there were new places to explore!
Stay tuned. The best is yet to come.
Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Louisiana - Mississippi - Alabama sailing adventure
Trip Itinerary :
Madisonville --- Slidell --- Ship Island --- Petit Bois Island --- Ft. Morgan --- Bear Point --- Ingram Bayou --- Horn Island --- Cat Island --- Mandeville --- Madisonville
Finally, a Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama trip that had the variety we wanted! For us, a trip is worthwhile once Talisman, our trusted Pearson 365, exits Lake Pontchartrain. That’s not to say that we don’t enjoy the communities around the Lake. It’s just that we are familiar with them and are seeking new sights, new explorations.
On this trip we visited friends in Slidell, LA. We had met the loosely assembled group of sailors and seen their boats at a get-together. A few people took off the next day, and we headed out with others a couple of days later. We covered pretty much of what are the interesting islands off the coast of Mississippi – Ship and Petit Bois one way, and then Horn and Cat on the way back. We crossed Mobile Bay and entered the Alabama Canal (the inland ICW of Lower Alabama), lighting at several spots that are just as quaint and attractive as can be.
Altogether this was a satisfying trip. There was a good mix of anchoring in pristine waters off of uninhabited islands, sharing scenery and meals in bayou areas, and partaking of what the boating communities of Lower Alabama have to offer. Lower Alabama has plenty of good marinas, bayous, restaurants, and gregarious people, all of which made for great enjoyment and socializing, too.
Enjoy the slideshow. The next few blogs will cover the trip segments in more detail.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Caravan to the MS & AL Gulf Coast
Sunday, May 17, 2009
The Tchefuncte River, LA
The Tchefuncte River on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain, LA is a beautiful and relaxing body of water that winds by several charming towns, homes, and great anchoring holes. Sailors, fishermen, boaters of all kinds, and people who just love to be around water convene on this River. Not to mention those that have been lucky enough to build their homes (from nice to lavish) on its banks. The ecosystem is amazing: a variety of birds, plants, fish, and maybe an alligator or two. Enjoy the slide show!
Friday, May 8, 2009
From the beginning
Here are some sets of photos since we've had Talisman, our Pearson 365 ketch. We lost our original sailboat, a C&C 27, to Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Talisman's been with us since April 2008. After a few more adjustments, we'll be heading toward the horizon!
Friday, May 1, 2009
Ship Island or Bust!
Day 1.
We are determined to make it to Ship Island, MS on this trip. The barrier islands off the coast of Mississippi beckon us. And who are we to ignore a challenge!
Our marina is approximately one hour upriver on the Tchefuncte River. Preparation for the trip takes, as usual, until mid- to late afternoon. Mike had installed some efficiencies -- a gauge to monitor levels of the waste tank; another battery and a gauge to monitor battery activity; and, a few other adjustments -- and we are going to test them. We motor downriver to Madisonville, which is just as quaint and enchanting as ever. There we meet another sailor, who comes by to chat. He has an Islander tied up along the same public dock near Friends Restaurant. He's certainly entertaining with his tales of the Bahamas. I just wonder if we’ll make it there before the end of this year. Or is it next year. But sometime in the foreseeable future.
Dinner is on board Talisman. It makes sense to follow the “one pan” cooking logic. We have two options for cooking: an electric burner that requires AC, and an alcohol stove for when AC is not an option. To make best use of the one-pan/one-burner concept, I brought a bag of already cooked wheat pasta that will serve as a basis for several nights’ meals. Also another bag with cooked chicken for part of the meals, and cans of tuna and salmon for the other times. Frozen veggies make up the third component. And presto you have a meal! Of course one can't forget the spices and other ingredients that give special flavors. Since we’re on the subject of the galley (kitchen), you should know that you can provision for a good many days without having to depend on restaurants at all. Fresh fruit and veggies are kept in those new ever-fresh (green) bags, placed on shelves or in food hammocks. There are other containers and places for the nuts, dried milk envelopes, teas and cocoa, power bars and granola bars, cereal and other dry goods. The fridge is small but will accommodate the meat, pasta, frozen veggies, juice, other drinks and, oh, a few beers. Nonetheless, we plan to make restaurant stops along the way. If nothing else but to enjoy sunsets and views from another vantage point.
To cap off a great initial day we take our showers (so satisfying because Talisman has a separate shower stall, unusual for our boat size, 36.5 ft.), pour over the charts, and read to sleep (at least I do).
Day 2.
We leave Madisonville around 9:00 a.m. after our morning routines: yoga, breakfast and NPR news; filling up drinking water containers; checking engine and fluids, bringing handheld GPS and binoculars into the cockpit, and readying jack lines and PFDs for the open Gulf or rough weather on the Lake.
It’s the usual crossing of Pontchartrain Lake to access the Rigolets and then the Gulf of Mexico. The Tchefuncte River is all the way on the opposite side from where we need to go. Other things being equal, it takes roughly 2 – 2/12 hrs. to the Causeway Bridge from the mouth of the Tchefuncte River, then another 3 – 3/12 hrs. to the entrance to Slidell’s Oak Harbor, if the Hwy. 11 Bridge will open right away for us. We do experience an hour of angst as the N. Causeway drawbridge refuses to function well. Had the bridge engineers not been able to correct it, we would have had to consider an extra four hours tacked on to that day’s trip. It would make crossing the Lake in one day undesirable. The extra four hours would mean travelling alongside the Causeway Bridge to the S. Causeway just to pass under a fixed portion of the Bridge that is 50 ft. high (Talisman is 49 ft., thus only a 1 ft. clearance). We’re so happy to finally make it to Phil’s at Oak Harbor, Slidell that same day, that we treat ourselves to drinks and sunset on the restaurant’s back porch. And there’s Talisman staring gratefully at us.
Day 3.
The weather predictions are for steady 10 – 15 knot winds from the S/SE. We are comfortable that Ship Island’s northwest corner will be good for anchorage. The day is beautiful. The fog and chilly weather of the last passage are history. We make it out of the Rigolets and into the Mississippi Sound in a couple of hours. Piece of cake!
The sail to Ship Island is great. Talisman sails really nicely on 12-16 knot winds. It was a relief to not have to use the motor. So much of cruising involves the motor, which offends the ear and distorts what sailing should be – a communion with nature. We make it through Grand Isle Pass and Marianne Channel in the Mississippi Sound and the rest of the ICW to the Gulfport Channel. From there we turn south toward the barrier islands, then veer east at beacons 25 and 26. The old Fort Massachusetts has been in sight for some time. From afar it seems to stand on water. Just about 1/3 mile offshore from the Fort and its pier, we drop anchor. It’s exciting to experience sunset looking out on the Fort, the white sand no-frills beach, fish jumping out of the water, and nature all around us.
The anchor takes hold on the first try, and there's no need to reset it or find another spot. The natural shape of the Island gives us enough protection from the winds. In fact, the winds and direction do not change for our entire stay. What a relief! No midnight scampering to change position, reset anchor, or take care of other inconveniences (except to quiet the clanking halyards).
Day 4.
The chattering of birds and the sight of the majestic Fort Massachussets inspire my yoga practice this morning. Fishing boats dot the horizon. And, dolphins swim up to Talisman as if to check us out. Our plans for this day are to inflate the dinghy, explore the Fort and the beach, and take a swim. The lee side of Ship Island is calm enough. But the waves are strong on the south side of the Island, which faces the open Gulf of Mexico.
Preparing the dinghy is a 45 min. ordeal. So, preparing it and then knocking it down for storage translates into 90 min., 1 ½ hrs. There’s got to be a better way! There are too many parts to this. Therefore, a strong probability that something might go wrong. The dinghy’s motor could drop on my head or in the water; the harness sustaining the dinghy while it is let down into the water and walked back to the stern could get tangled; etc. In addition, what if we needed to deploy the dinghy immediately due to an emergency? And, wouldn’t it be better to free up the space it takes – prime location, easy access area just below deck? The difficulty with using davits off the stern to keep the dinghy in “ready” stage is that the mizzenmast gets in the way. Keeping it on the foredeck blocks my (shorty) view. Oh well, this is an ongoing concern that has defied a solution as of yet. Hopefully I’ll be able to proudly report a solution soon.
It takes ½ hr. to get to shore on our dinghy with its 2.5 HP, 4 cycle Yanmar motor (brand spanking new). Fort Massachusetts is quite interesting. British soldiers used Ship Island to prepare for their attach on New Orleans in 1814. So, the U.S. War Department built the Fort and other fortifications to protect its territory from enemy invasion. A large cannon stands intact on the upper level, and the fort structure has been restored for tourism. After visiting the Fort we walk to the other side, the windward side, where waves crash heavily on the shore. Facilities are bare bones: a few blue umbrellas (for rent) in line across the beach, and a snack truck. A couple of outdoor bathrooms and water fountains complete the services. One of the park rangers tells us that a restaurant and other tourist facilities are in the making. We do notice some construction activity on the Island and are sad about their converting this simple, no-fuss island into a big tourist attraction.
We return to the lee side and ride our dinghy to other parts of the shore for a good swim. There are fish, and a couple of stingrays wander close into the shore. Then back to our boat that seems to patiently await our return. It’s nap time!
Day 5.
No WI-FI or cell phone access. We listen to the VHF weather report. Now the winds are supposed to increase notably, supposedly15-25 knots. Though we had hoped to overnight at the Pass Christian Harbor Marina on the coastline of Mississippi, we decide it might be better to get back into Lake Pontchartrain. The winds will be following us and that means strong wave action at our stern. Strong winds and a bumpy ride do not make for fun sailing. Rather than continuing in the Gulf, we point towards Slidell’s Oak Harbor Marina again. It’ll take a day to get there from Ship Island. Had we started out from Pass Christian, MS it would have been plausible to reach Mandeville, LA in Lake Pontchartrain. Mandeville is another lovely place to stop in, an experience much like Madisonville since it has lots of historical charm and one can walk to restaurants and cafes. Pass Christian, Mandeville and/or Bayou Lacombe will have to wait for another time.
The winds are strong and following. We have an exhilarating ride back into the Lake and are worn out when we get to Phil’s. All in a day’s work. We know that the weather on the next day will be equally as strong.
Day 6.
The day proves to be an even greater challenge. The shallowness of Lake Pontchartrain contributes to more wave action than the previous day. Mike skillfully gets us under two draw bridges where the main mast is swaying back and forth to the rhythm of the waves. There is a real danger that the mast or other dangling parts get caught on the bridge. So the suspense is definitely there. Adrenaline, anybody? Who needs the movies when you can live it in person?
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Ship Island, here we come
This is a beautiful day. Finally we can head over to Ship Island. We couldn't have more information. Now it's the act of doing. Will keep in touch!
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Next week -- next trip
We got excellent advice from sailors (Terry, Mike, Capt. Mike from Sea Knots, and others from Cruisers' Forum) for places to include in our itinerary. Anchorages, places to eat, and marinas. Of course, there was plenty of valuable info about what to avoid, as well. We were sorry not to get to many spots last time. (See why -- March Trip posting).
So, this time we hope to be able to include:
- barrier islands off Mississippi Coast (Cat, Ship, Horn and/or Petit Bois islands)
- Dauphin Is. and Dog River in Alabama
Will be in touch as often as possible throughout! And, oh yes, there will be pictures, too!
Hasta luego...arrivederci....
And don't forget to look at other pics on Picasa Web Albums (see link below)
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Talisman sails the Mississippi Sound
We had been waiting for this day. We wanted to finally exit the protective waters of Lake Pontchartrain and venture out into the Gulf of Mexico. How would it feel to navigate the great expanse? We would see land a few miles away on our port side, but not always. Eleven months after the purchase of our Pearson 365 ketch, Talisman, we were eager to push the envelope and try new adventures. Oh, we knew that this “first” was not going to be the grandest adventure, but the excitement and drive for exploration was enough to fuel our imagination.
After all, we had lost our first and only other sailboat, a C&C 27 named Sas-Sea Lady, that Hurricane Katrina had claimed. It was sad to find it heaped up on the shore at Southshore Marina in eastern New Orleans. From what we could see, all the other boats had either been flung on shore or were sunken. A few masts pointed out of the water to remind us of the mighty hand of Mother Nature. We had already been toying with a bigger and better sailing vessel for our growing interest in cruising. SasSea Lady wasn’t exactly comfortable for multiple nights out. We had sailed across the Lake and included overnighters at the Mandeville public dock and in Bayou Lacombe, but transitioning into coastal cruisers represented a whole other dimension.
After many boat inspections throughout several states, literature, a boat show, and interactions with other sailors, we settled on Talisman. It was right here in our own back yard, and also made a slip available to us on the north shore of the Lake. Slips were and are still hard to come by in this area and along the Mississippi Coast ever since the Hurricane. Finally we had a boat of our own again; Talisman was welcomed into the family in April of 2008.
Here we were in March of 2009, after updating and fixing structural, mechanical and electrical components, ready for our first foray into the Gulf. Mike had worked diligently (and still does – it’s a work in progress, as you all know) on bettering the systems and making the boat safer, more efficient, etc. At least his brain cells won’t go to mush too soon. I don’t know about mine but am hoping that the challenges of navigation, and organizational matters keep me alert.
DAY 1.
DAY 2.
We’ll have to request passage at the North Causeway drawbridge, and then pass under the railroad bridge and request passage under the Hwy. 11 Bridge in order to reach our destination for that day. We’ve calculated a late afternoon arrival at Oak Harbor Marina, City of Slidell. There’s a great seafood (and steak) restaurant named Phil’s with docking availability. Several sailors had recommended it on the SeaKnots blog after my post requesting suggestions for our trip. We passed Mandeville and Bayou Lacombe that we were so familiar with, and the Slidell area wasn’t too far beyond.
Passing under the North Causeway draw bridge, we pay our respects to the many pelicans that perch there, claiming that territory. The pelican is the State of Louisiana’s symbol. And they are interesting creatures to watch. Though not noisy as the seagulls tend to be, they fly gracefully, despite their size, skimming the water for an opportunity to fish.
DAY 3.
Finally, we experience the Gulf of Mexico! From Rabbit Island we could see where the Mississippi Sound begins (also part of the ICW). We follow the Coast Guard’s Coastal Explorer charts, but it’s evident that the Sound is well marked, with beacons lining up every couple of miles or so. The Sound runs parallel to the Mississippi Coast for a ways until roughly at the longitude of Pass Christian. Then it veers northeast to take you to a juncture that offers a couple of interesting options: Long Beach Marina on the Coast or Cat Island toward the south. We had been told of the enticing anchorage area of Cat Island, somewhat protected at its southeastern section, a hideaway called Smuggler’s Cove. We had planned to reach it that night but winds were picking up and the weather window looked like it was going to get worse before it got better again.
Long Beach Marina was surprisingly accommodating. It had had the reputation of shallow waters towards the back of the Marina where a restaurant once stood (before the Hurricane). We found that the Marina had been dredged and provided sufficient depths for our 4.5 ft. keel and slightly more (7-9 ft.). Water, electricity, fuel and waste dumping were available. There was also round-the-clock security. Several fast food places are within walking distance. If one had wheels, there is also a full-fledged grocery and marine supply stores within a couple of miles. Also, Gulfport is slightly less than two miles from Long Beach. We basically cooked on board and hunkered down for the evening. The trip from Slidell’s Oak Harbor Marina to Long Beach Marina had tired us out. The newness of it all, having to be continuously alert and moving about, etc., etc.
DAY 4.
We set out with choppy seas that same morning. Another sailboat coming from the Cat Island area caught up with us and we basically buddied up for the trip back to Pontchartrain Lake. As we radioed back and forth, we found out from our sailing buddy that winds had grown quite strong in the night and that the seas were a bit rough. Depths around Cat Island are not fantastic for fixed keel sailboats. As our sailing buddy remarked, it had been no picnic.
It was a good choice to head over to Phil’s at Oak Harbor since Friday nights are really lively. The plentiful and fresh crayfish, shrimp and oysters are certainly hard to resist. We had a wonderful meal, coldies and a great overnight at their pier. Again, it was wonderful to wake up to the very attractive Marina, the chattering of birds, the clanking of halyards, the lovely homes and manicured surroundings and the community of boats. Yoga on the foredeck couldn’t have been better.
DAY 5.
DAY 6.