Aventura Eastbound III

Headed Home to New Orleans!

Thu 11/6-Sat 11/8/14

Santa Rosa Yacht & Boat Club (SRYC) was a pleasant surprise.  Nestled on the north side of the Pensacola Beach Bridge, it's easy to ignore in favor of Little Sabine Bay or other anchorages along the Pensacola Beach side of the Santa Rosa Sound. But SRYC is actually a good stopover: attentive staff; very nice bathroom/shower; use of their Club Room with Cable TV; free pump-out and clothes washing; WiFi; and, really close to shopping and eateries.  We biked to groceries and coffee.  One can also cross the street to eateries nearby, or bike to plenty more.  Of course we needed to take advantage of all-of-the-above right at that point in the trip.  So, we did.  The only minus was the layout of the marina in terms of protection from wind and waves.  Not much protection there because there's a low wall separating slips from the open waters.  But no problem.  We were not facing bad weather.  That would come later on.

Sat 11/8-11/14

When we left on the morning of the 8th at around 11:00 a.m. it was dreary and a bit cooler.  The idea of anchoring in Big Lagoon off Pensacola Bay was  the original plan.  However, as we passed a favorite spot, one which Mike calls "The Cut" (because it cuts through to the entrance/exit to the Gulf of Mexico), we saw a large group of boats.  How so many power boats and sailboats crammed into the small body of water at the foot of Fort McCrae was a wonder.  And then we remembered: the Navy Base across the way (part of Pensacola) was putting on an air show!

Change of plans: pick another spot along the Alabama Canal.  We entered Robert's Bayou at 3:15 p.m.  We had long known about it and even entered to explore it with our previous sailboat (a monohull).  But we were hesitant to take Aventura in with its two hulls/keels (20.3 ft. wide beam) in such a narrow passageway that had shoaling on its east side to boot.  Talking to other sailors and reading reviews convinced us that we could enter without grounding if we took it slowly and carefully.  That's what we did with success and, wow, were we happy.  The Bayou had been cleared of old, abandoned boats that used to populate the precious anchorages.  Robert's Bayou is so pretty with its untouched nature throughout and tasteful homes woven in along some of the banks. Anchored in 10 ft. of water.  Position: 30 deg. 19.423' N/87 deg. 32.033'W

Plus there's Pirate's Cove, a legendary, laid back, rustic eatery.  Drinks, food, and views of the Alabama Canal are good.  But it's the characters that frequent the place that make this a must for transient boaters.  We rowed our dinghy over there twice and enjoyed. We also rowed to the Josephine Picnic Area on another bank, and explored other parts of the Bayou.  Lovely, lovely, lovely!

Tue 11/11/14

We left at 9:00 a.m. thinking of going into Dog River, just off Mobile Bay, but weather reports indicated several cold fronts headed south over the next week or so.  We were doing 7.5 kts. along the AL Canal (a strong current in our favor) and passed up Dog River to make it to the Mississippi Barrier Islands.  We knew we had just that one day and night to anchor at one of the islands, and then we'd have to find a marina along the Gulf Coast for a few days, waiting for another good day to make headway toward New Orleans.  We reached Horn Island, MS just in time for the 6:00 p.m. sunset, anchoring on the northeast side of the Island.  Just past what seemed like a convention of pelicans.  Too many to count.  And settled at a spot where we'd feel the least rocking overnight.  Position:  30 deg. 13.707'N/88 deg. 35.355'W

Wed 11/12-15/14

Once again in Pass Christian Yacht Harbor, the first and last port of call on this trip. We hunkered down for a very chilly few days.  Saturday would bring milder temperatures, wind and waves for our trek back to Pontchartrain Lake and New Orleans.

Forget the bike riding.  Bundled up to the nines, we walked to Shaggy's for dinner one night and to Cat Island Coffeehouse one morning.  Otherwise, it was popcorn, our one DVD, reading, chores, and bonding.  Of course bonding; that's one of the sought after prizes of our sailing adventures.  And, yes, some conversation with other sailors.  That can be interesting and often informative.

Sat 11/15/14

Brr!  Cold day but we had to leave by 7:30 a.m. to make it back to Lake Pontchartrain and our New Orleans home port before dark.  We watched the fishermen congregating in certain parts of the Mississippi Sound, the barges that lumbered along in single file in the ICW, took turns at the helm, and tried to stay warm. Hot tea, hot chocolate and hot soup got us through the nine hours it took to get us there.

The discomfort of cold or dashed plans didn't diminish the feelings of satisfaction and pleasure at adding another chapter to our sailing adventures. So, we're already thinking about when and how to embark on the next trip.

Arrivederci!  Hasta luego!  Until the next time! Oh, and remember to double click on the slideshow (any of the slideshows), if you want to see the pictures and in a larger format.

New Orleans Eastbound III

5/18-19/2014
Knowing we had a long day ahead, we left Barber Marina on the AL Canal early, around 8 a.m. An unencumbered day for travel -- temperatures in the upper '70s, and mild. We motored to Dauphin Is., AL, passing Wolf Bay, The Wharf Marina complex, Lulu's Restaurant and Homeport Marina (she is Jimmy Buffet's sister)along the AL Canal. Then we crossed Mobile Bay, turning south at Dauphin Is., working our way to Pelican Passage, an anchorage at the underbelly of the Island. Our first time there, it proved to be an acceptable cove and very popular for locals. We rowed to shore, splashed around in the water for a while before retiring for sunset and dinner. This anchorage offers very little protection from weather, but the Windfinder indicated good conditions through the night. By the way, if there was any passage or cut through before, there isn't now, which makes for a longer trip when leaving to go westward. Maybe locals ought to refer to it as Pelican Cove. Location: 30 deg. 14.634 N/ 88 deg 06.902 W

5/19-20/2014
Weather conditions continued mild. So headed for the next island west of Dauphin called Petit Bois, and it's across the state line in Mississippi. If you're from the area you call it "Petiboi," a little bit of a departure from its French root, but who's challenging that. It did take a while to reach the northeastern part of Petit Bois from the southern part of Dauphin, also because there's no real channel between the two islands. So, you pick your way through very carefully, watching the depth meter intently. It seems that the whole string of Mississippi islands plus Dauphin Is., AL are slowly moving westward, so scientists say, and the continuous shoaling makes any chart outdated. We arrived at Petit Bois in the early afternoon, a destination we're familiar with and like. Again, limited protection, as are the rest of the Barrier Islands off the Mississippi coastline. In this case, there was no boat nearby, which made it a peaceful anchorage. We dropped the dinghy and this time the motor worked! So we made it to shore and walked around a bit plus swam. Time to break out one of the DVD's we had bought at a garage sale or somewhere like that, pop popcorn on the propane stove and enjoy the evening. Even watching a DVD on a battery powered, 7 in. screen can be fun when in the "camping" mode. Beside that, I have my Nook and Mike his reading material, too. No cell phone connection. The VHF would cover communications with another boat or the Coast Guard, or hear weather reports. But otherwise, it was just our floating cabin in the natural setting. OK by us. Location: 30 deg. 12.261 N/ 88 deg 26.679 W

5/20-22/2014
You notice how we alternate between the nature experience and the town experience? If water tanks are full, there's plenty of provisions, boat operations systems are working well, and there's no issue with weather, then there's a choice. Choosing nature takes you to a simple state of body and mind, best for introspection, and feelings that develop from a natural setting. Marinas, hence city life, feeds the addictions: technology, places, foods, entertainment. Our addictions were calling. So, we headed for Point Cadet Marina at the eastern tip of Biloxi, across the bay from Ocean Springs, and across a narrow channel to Deer Is. We left early and made the approx. 30 nm run in less than 5 hrs., motor sailing. The Golden Nugget Casino is next door to the marina. Gambling and the gambling environment is not for us, but the Starbuck's inside was. In fact, the Hard Rock Casino, about 1 mi. down the beach, also had a Starbuck's, and we visited that as well. Guess it's true that Starbuck's is everywhere. We did the usual biking, looking for the historic area, grocery shopping, and taking in any breeze we could. It was getting hotter by the day. We also looked in on the Biloxi Small Craft Harbor, which is much better located if you're biking, but they discourage (or so we thought) pleasure boats in favor of commercial boats. It's full of fishing vessels, and some sell fish/seafood off the boats during certain seasons. Many Asians involved, which is a usual sight along the Gulf Coast. So, that means Asian stores and restaurants, too, which adds texture to towns. A good thing.

5/22-24/2014
We left Point Cadet and made the 3-hr. run to Gulfport Harbor Marina where we stayed for a couple of nights, while waiting to rendezvous with our friends at Ship Is. on the 24th. No casino visits, but yes biking and the usual. Gulfport Harbor Marina is first class and most of the boats are pleasure boats. A totally different atmosphere from the Biloxi marinas, as we saw it. Otherwise, the town has an historic area, restaurants and coffee nearby, just like Biloxi. The big difference in the towns is that Biloxi has become synonymous with casino life, though it was a fishing town (many tournaments available for you sports fishermen) and historic town way before the casinos.

5/24-26/2014
We were eager to meet up with George and family at Ship Is., which in and of itself is an attractive destination. So, we left mid-morning for the 2 1/2 hr. straight run down to the northern part of the island where Fort Massachusetts is and the better anchorages. It's also where anchorage spots are closest to shore for exploration. Though a popular island, this was Memorial Day Weekend, and the sailboats/motorboats abounded. George's cat, a Privelege 39, was in a perfect spot, and we dropped anchor nearby. Saturday and Sunday were days to visit, share meals, go ashore, swim and generally frolic. If you're ever in the area, don't hesitate to visit Fort Massachusetts and the Gulf beach area of the island. Very nice, so much so that there are several daily excursions back and forth from Gulfport, and maybe from other towns. All in all, this was a wonderful way to put the finishing touches on a trip that was meant to relax and did.

IN SUMMARY:
This was a 3-week plus sailing trip that started out with no plan. We stopped where we wanted and moved at the speed we chose at the time, and it worked well for us. Weather, as well as boat and body functioning cooperated to make it a memorable trip. We visited new places: Pass Christian Harbor Marina, Lake Yazoo, Redfish Point and The Cut on Big Lagoon, Paradise Inn anchorage, Pelican Pass/Dauphin Is., and Point Cadet Marina. We revisited places we already knew and liked: Ingram Bayou, Palafox Marina/Pensacola, Barber Marina/AL Canal, Petit Bois, Gulfport, and Ship Is. Sailing for us is all about exploring and relaxing, and this trip delivered. Even when the weather is inclement, as in last trip (November 2013), there's always something to remember warmly. Memories that keep us going in life.

New Orleans Eastbound I

Sat. 5/3 – Mon. 5/5/2014

We say our last goodbyes to our friend and pier pal, George, as we head out into choppy waters and nippy winds (15-18 kts.) on Lake Pontchartrain.  It’s 8:00 a.m. and the weather is exhilarating (sunny skies, highs to reach mid ‘70s), foretelling adventures and good times as we move foreward.  Unlike all our past trips, there is no plan.  The plan is no plan, just to head east. 

We decide to try Pass Christian Harbor & Marina, MS.  I’m itching to play tourist with our Dahon Speed Uno bikes and just ramble for a couple of days.  The town is easy to navigate, and it’s great to see how well it’s been recovering from Hurricane Katrina (2005) when it was hit really hard.  Plus you can’t beat $21.40/night including all taxes and fees.  And, what can I say, we love the ritual of the coffeehouse.  Cat Island Coffeehouse & Pass Christian Bookstore was perfect.  If you venture there, be sure to ride your bikes along Scenic Drive with a long row of beautiful antebellum homes on one side, and the Gulf of Mexico on the other.  Nice!

Mon. 5/5 – Tue. 5/6/2014

We left Pass Christian early and hoped to either anchor at one of the Barrier Islands off the Mississippi Coast or Lake Yazoo in the Pascagoula area.  The winds would have to be just right for either Horn or Petit Bois islands; so, we put our sights on Lake Yazoo, which we hadn’t been to before.  It was a slow crossing with hardly any wind from behind and hot.  Not a memorable day, but we were pleasantly surprised with Lake Yazoo, a tiny oasis in the midst of industrial activity.  Ingall’s Shipyard, with its massive building contracts for the navy, and oil refineries engulf the area.  But Yazoo is surrounded by high end residences and smart boats.  There were others anchoring there as well.  A good storm hole between Biloxi and the Alabama Canal.  Location: 30°20.85N/88°33.52W

Tues. 5/6 – Wed. 5/7/2014

Given that high winds are expected by Thursday, we bypass another new anchorage spot, which is on the south side of Dauphin Is. in favor of reaching the Alabama Canal.  From Yazoo we motor-sailed past Dauphin Is., across Mobile Bay and into a part of the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW), which is both protected and beautiful.  That’s where the trip acquires texture.  Surrounded by lush vegetation, interesting homes and a few marine businesses, not to mention people bustling about, there’s more to see and appreciate. 

One of our favorite anchorages is Ingram Bayou, nestled between Wolf River and Perdido Bay.  No signage.  You just have to know where to turn in.  A little secret but, alas, not only ours.  There were already three boats anchored; so, we nudged our way in and settled for the night.  We had hoped to stay a couple of nights at least.  And we’ll probably do that on the return because the attraction to Ingram is that you are surrounded only by the sounds of nature.  Nothing artificial.  And you could almost reach out and touch the foliage on shore; your boat is that close. Plus, doing my yoga first thing in the morning to the sounds of birds and occasional dolphins that enter the bayou is most gratifying.  Location: 30°19.27N/87°33.41

Wed. 5/7 – Thu. 5/8/2014

In between Perdido Bay and Pensacola Bay there’s a long body of water called Big Lagoon.  We headed for it and decided on an anchorage in a wide open space with the Gulf Shores Nature Conservancy providing protection from the open Gulf. The best spots are near Redfish Point. 

We got in the dinghy to go explore the sand dunes and look out into the Gulf.  The motor didn’t cooperate but we took turns rowing.  And we swam.  A beautiful sunset and meal.  What’s not to like about that?  Location: 30°19.19N/87°20.21W

Thu. 5/8/2014

Well, it’s time to duck into a marina again.  Palafox Marina in Pensacola is great.  Not only is it a first-class marina at reasonable rates (for Boat U.S. members), but it’s smack in the middle of the historic section of town.  On the agenda:  groceries, eat out at least one meal, laundry, biking, more biking, odd jobs, coffeehouse….We’ll probably be here through Sunday, given rains and high winds forecasting.  Not sure where we’re going next.  Stay tuned!

Be sure to double click on the slideshow for larger format viewing. 

New Orleans to Port St. Joe - Nov 2010 - Part V

11/29/10. Bear Point and that area along the Alabama Canal from Mobile Bay through Perdido Bay and Pensacola Bay is delightful. There’s something about the nature and people that is very attractive. And it’s not too far away, some 3 days on Talisman. Even shorter if and when we do upgrade to another, faster vessel. We explored Ingram’s Bayou, Bear Point Marina and its live-aboard community and Robert’s Bayou across the way, Holiday Harbor Marina on Perdido Key, and Palafox Marina at historic downtown Pensacola. We have yet to experience Wolf Bay (along the AL Canal), Big Lagoon (connecting Perdido Bay and Pensacola Bay), and Bayou Chico (western side of Pensacola), as well as restaurants like Pirate’s Cove (yes, we know, it comes highly recommended).

Once we left Bear Point Marina in Lower Alabama (along AL Canal), we could smell Home. This part we had done before and it was straightforward. There aren’t too many anchorages or marinas on the first leg of this trip back home. The first 50 nm include Mobile Bay, Dauphin Is. and then the beginning of the Barrier Islands facing the Mississippi Coast. Given the SE winds to 15 kts., protection in Mobile Bay and on the leeside of Dauphin Is. did not seem sufficient. We did a good 6.5 kts, spiking to 6.7 kts. for much of the 8 ½ hr. run. That night we anchored on the north eastern side of Petit Bois Is., snuggling in a crescent with depths of 10-16 ft. about 1/3 mi. from shore, and that has worked for us before. We were expecting winds to kick up to 20 kts.; so, we raised our mizzen, laid out 70’ of chain + 45’ line, and set the anchor alarm. Coordinates: N 30° 12.338’ and W 88° 26.593’, southwest of marker R 17.

The next day we realized the predicted strength of winds did not materialize. Nevertheless we were attentive to weather info and changes as we headed for Cat Is.’s northern shore for anchorage that evening. We passed Horn and Ship islands with a favorable current so that we were doing 6.8 kts. most of the day. On a whim we decided instead to change course to North and stay at the Long Beach Marina. This would be the last night of the trip and we wanted a good fish dinner and the marina amenities including WiFi as a prize. We knew that the final day of our trip, next day, would be a good 12 hrs. to our home port of South Shore Harbor Marina in New Orleans.

Leaving early from Long Beach we passed Cat Is. and aimed for the Rigolets that connects the Gulf of Mexico with Pontchartrain Lake and New Orleans. After clearing the several bridges that mark that passage, we made it to harbor on a refreshing close haul that delivered us through sunset and late evening straight into our Harbor. It was exciting to sail at night. We had only done it once before: Destin Harbor (see previous blogs of this trip), where the markers weren’t lighted and the depth sounder kept going off, and using Gina as a lookout on the bow. Interpreting lights and using the chart plotter to guide you (radar not necessary this time) was a change to using the naked eye. We’ll have more occasions to sail at night when we cross from the Panhandle of Florida to the peninsula’s western coast. But that’s for a next trip, whether on Talisman or another boat.

All in all, this was a great trip, notwithstanding the cold spells, the nasty winds at times, and having to change plans here and there. But there were many amazing sunrises and sunsets, beautiful places and friendly people to more than compensate for the less attractive spells. With every new trip, one always learns something new, and builds a little more confidence with the boat, functionality, and one’s ability to adapt. We sailed further this time and will sail further next time. All in the name of adventure and curiosity at what lies around the next corner.

SUMMARY OF TRIP ITINERARY:

South Shore Harbor Marina, New Orleans, LA (HOME) -- Cat Is., MS -- Petit Bois Is., MS -- Ingram Bayou, AL -- Holiday Harbor Marina, Perdido Key, FL -- Palafox Marina, Pensacola, FL -- Destin Harbor anchorage, FL -- Panama City Marina, St. Andrew Bay, FL -- Port St. Joe Marina, St. Joseph Bay, FL -- Bay Point Marina, Big Lagoon (St. Andrew Bay), FL -- Rocky Bayou (Choctawhatchee Bay), FL -- Grassy Point (Foot of Pensacola Beach Bridge) Sta. Rosa Sound, FL -- Bear Point Marina, Lower AL (AL Canal) -- Petit Bois Is., MS -- Long Beach Marina, MS -- HOME

HIGHLIGHTS:

Ingram Bayou and Rocky Bayou anchorages -- Palafox Marina & art market in Pensacola historic downtown -- Port St. Joe & Dockside Cafe -- shark wrestling with prey -- dolphins -- live-aboard community at Bear Point Marina -- sunsets -- Alabama Canal & Perdido Bay

New Orleans to Port St. Joe - Nov 2010 - Part IV

11/20/10. One beautiful bay after another! Passing through them all we realized it would be hard to choose one over the others. St. Joseph Bay, St. Andrew’s Bay, Choctawhatchee Bay, Pensacola Bay, and Perdido Bay all were lovely in their own way and had special features. The weather and schedules are the only factors limiting our time in each one. It just means there’s plenty to explore the next times around.

We left St. Andrew’s Bay before 7:30 a.m. We weren’t sure of passage conditions, changes in weather, and how good the anchorage we had selected would turn out. After the “excitement” at Destin Harbor - the challenges of risky depths, unlighted markers, and arriving when dark - we wanted to make sure we entered the new (to us) anchorage at Rocky Bayou early enough. Plus we wanted to enjoy the sunset before turning in for the night. Winds were NE closer to 15 kts. and it was cold. We passed under the Hathaway Bridge into the ICW which first part is a rather large bay (West Bay) and then becomes a narrow canal (around 20 nm), which locals affectionately call “the ditch.” At the end we entered into Choctawatchee Bay, got to the approximate midway point just past the bridge that connects the north shore to Destin, and took a turn to starboard toward the northern banks where two bayous offer purportedly good anchorages. We made our way up Rocky Bayou to its northwestern section and anchored in 9-10 ft. of water. The 50 nm run on that day was worth it. And we got to enjoy the sunset in an ideal setting. There are probably hundreds of pretty bayous along the northern Gulf Coast. This one was tranquil, with unassuming residences dotting the shoreline, close enough to Destin, but far enough to preserve its uniqueness and naturalness. Highly recommended. Our coordinates just in case: N 30° 30.615’ and W 86° 27.226’.

The next challenge was to clear the Ft. Walton (Brooks) Bridge the next day. Reports had it as 49.9’ give or take 0.6” for the tides. Our 47’ mast + some for the antenna and Windex meant we would just make it, and we did. But it was a little bit of tension as we neared and then cleared, followed by exhilaration once through it. At that point we had crossed Choctawhatchee Bay and had entered the Sta. Rosa Sound (ICW) that would take us to Pensacola Bay and beyond. Since we had traveled outside in the Gulf on the way to Port St. Joe, the return trip was to include the inland route for variety’s sake. Had we not been able to clear the infamous Bridge, we would have had to return to St. Andrew’s Bay and go out into the Gulf. The bridge at Destin that leads to the Gulf is even lower than the one at Ft. Walton. No way.

Sta. Rosa Sound is even more enjoyable than “the ditch” because it has quite a few communities, boats, and a few marinas along the way. We went under the 50’ Navarre Bridge and then finally the Pensacola Bridge that connects Gulf Breeze to Pensacola Beach. Right past that Bridge, above Red 142, is a good anchorage at Grassy Point. It was 48 nm from Rocky Bayou to Grassy Point, and we made it in time for the sunset again. Coordinates: N 30° 21.035’ and W 87° 10.014’.

We had had good weather the day of travel to Grassy Point, but it promptly deteriorated the next day when we were to cross Pensacola Bay (which seems to be often choppy) and enter the Alabama Canal (ICW). SE 10-15 Kts. was predicted, but it felt like at least 15 kts. as Talisman hit the waves. We had let out the genoa and began motoring but soon had to furl the sail up again. We could see Pensacola and the general area where Palafox Marina is. That was a great experience (see previous posting).

Entering Perdido Bay was like coming home. We had seen it before both in last year’s trip to this area and the current trip going to Port St. Joe. We decided to stop at Bear Point Marina, located at Mill Point at the beginning of the Alabama Canal. We were here last year and thoroughly enjoyed it. There’s a live-aboard community, which is very lively. The way the boat slips are situated adds to the sense of community. The atmosphere is laid back. The restaurant, Flippers, is decent and has great views, as does the Marina. On a good day, one can dinghy over to the other side of the Canal where Pirate’s Cove is for its famous hamburgers and entertainment.

So we’re feeling like home, also knowing the real home and Thanksgiving are awaiting us in New Orleans, a few nights away.