Sailing with Mickey and Nan on Lake Pontchartrain

Fall weather in the New Orleans area is fantastic. South Shore Harbor, where Talisman, our Pearson 365, is docked is perfectly located close to the Rigolets and the exit to the Gulf of Mexico. And, South Shore is almost brand spanking new since Hurricane Katrina leveled it back in 2005. We’re glad to be back at South Shore. We can be out in the Gulf in a matter of hours. So, reaching, say, Cat Island or Ship Island off the Mississippi coast is a day’s venture unless the weather is uncooperative or other unforeseen mishaps surprise us.

We invited our friends Mickey and Nan to enjoy a leisurely outing on the Lake. We talked and ate, and the day was beautiful. But the sailing was less than spectacular. Why the weather delivered only 5 mi./hr. winds was a mystery since a supposed Cold Front was approaching. But we had fun anyway.

Getting out in the Fall, which we’ve been taking advantage of, drowned the disappointment over the extreme heat this Summer and the oil spill. Now we’re excited looking forward to our upcoming trip. We should start sometime next week before the end of October. Our plans are to cruise along the Mississippi, Alabama and Florida coastline. Let’s see if we can make it to Tampa on a month long trip (no rush -- we take our time and get to know places and people). We’d travelled the Mississippi and Alabama coastline, including the barrier islands off Mississippi, and the Alabama Canal to Bear Point (see 2009 trips).

Now we’d like to add some further points to our repertoire. For example, we plan to anchor in Big Lagoon, stop in at Pensacola, Destin, maybe Panama City, definitely Port St. Joe, and maybe make the puddle jump to the Tampa area, including their islands.

If anyone has recommendations to make, please, PLEASE respond. We would love tips on anchorages, marinas, restaurants, and all the other important stuff that makes sailing fun and convenient. For example, are there bridges or passages to avoid? How about Internet service, provisioning, great this or that, etc.? Or just let us know about quirky experiences or other thoughts.

Will blog a couple of times a week as we go. Let’s keep the conversation going!

Gulf Sailing Post BP Oil Spill

GULF SAILING POST BP OIL SPILL

New Orleans, LA
July 2010


Recently, Mike and Gina visited some of the marinas along the Mississippi Gulf Coast to inventory facilities and judge the impact of the oil spill. When we visited (middle of June 2010) none had oil problems and all were eager for transient sailboats. When we checked back following the 4th of July holiday, the situation had changed. Most seemed unsure of what was happening and the harbormasters were meeting to determine what type of “decontamination procedures” (if any) would be used for boats entering their harbors. See Mississippi Department of Marine Resources, http://www.dmr.state.ms.us, as well as NOAA, http://www.noaa.gov, and Deepwater Horizon Unified Command, http://www.deepwaterhorizonresponse.com for updates.

Although few sailors are eager to head out into the oily waters of the northern Gulf coast at this time, the information we collected from the marinas may be useful once the oil dissipates and we get our sailing lives back.

The following is information on the individual marinas as of July, 2010. Most are all near some eateries and groceries. The Biloxi marinas are next door to casinos, with all their positives and negatives. They all offer power and water. Most have pump-out facilities, fuel and restrooms with showers. Some have laundry facilities. Several are in the process of adding or expanding facilities, so call in advance to verify availability, facilities, fees, etc.

Pass Christian Harbor & Marina
Phone: (228) 452-5128 or 5129
Location: 30º 18.65’N 89º 14.97’W
Transients: $22 flat rate per night for most (as of 7/6/10)

Several shoal areas complicate entrance into the marina for sailboats or other boats with a draft of 4’ or more. There are two safe approaches to the marina, one if approaching from the east and one from the west. The approach from the west requires the greatest caution as several shoals must be avoided. Pay careful attention to charts and avoid Square Handkerchief Shoal, as well as the shoal that starts about a quarter mile in front of the marina entrance.

The entrance into the harbor is relatively direct and easy if approaching from the east. From the Marianne Channel lighted buoy 1 (approximately 30º 16.65’N, 89º, 09’W), head on a course of 293 m to the Pas Christian East Entrance Light 2 (30º 18.556 N 89º14.226W). From there, head on a course of 277ºto the Pas Christian Breakwater Light 4 at the entrance to the harbor.

Long Beach Harbor & Marina
Phone: 601-836-4795
Location: 30º 20.56’N 89º 08.515’W
Transients: $1 per foot

Entrance to the Long Beach Marina is relatively straightforward and safe. If approaching on the ICW from the east, turn to starboard on a course of 322º at the Cat Island Light 2. It is about 4.5 nm to the Long Beach Harbor Light 1 at channel entrance (located at 30º 20.43’N 89º 08.35’W). If approaching from the west on the ICW, turn to port on a course of 9º at the Marianne Channel Lighted Buoy 1. It is approximately 3.8 nm to the Long Beach Harbor Lights 1 and 2. Stay between the markers as it is shallow outside the channel. Even current NOAA charts show shallow depths in the harbor, but it has been dredged and is very useful.

Biloxi Small Craft Harbor & Marina
Next to Hard Rock Café & Casino
Phone: 228 436-4062
Location: 30º 23.46’N 88º 53.074’W
Transients: $1 per foot

For cruisers on the ICW, the most convenient entrance into the Biloxi Small Craft Harbor uses the Biloxi West Approach Channel. The channel entrance is at 30º 21.60’N 88º 54.16’W. The channel runs roughly north for about 1.5 nm then curves toward the east. The lights marking the entrance to the Small Craft Harbor are located between lateral markers 16 and 18.

Point Cadet Marina (Biloxi)
Phone: 228-436-9312
Location: 30º 23.38’N 88º 51.47’W
Transients: $1 per foot

Point Cadet Marina is located approximately 1.4 nm east of Biloxi Small Craft Harbor just off the Biloxi West Approach Channel, behind the parking garage for the Hard Rock Casino. The channel leading into the marina is located between Biloxi Channel Day beacons 26 and 28. Keep an eye on your depth sounder.

Jackson County Small Craft Harbor in Ocean Springs
Phone: 228-872-5754
Location: 30º 24.33’N 88º 49.31’W

The Jackson County Small Craft Harbor (Ocean Springs Marina) is just off the Biloxi East Approach Channel that leads to the Back Bay of Biloxi. If approaching the area from the west, you can use the Biloxi West Approach Channel and just continue past Biloxi Small Craft Harbor and Point Cadet Marina until this intersects the east approach channel at the Biloxi East Channel light 26. From there, you cross the main channel and make a slight turn to port. You should see the Ocean Springs Channel Light 2 about a quarter mile ahead. Follow the Ocean Springs channel carefully and keep an eye on the depth meter, as it gets quite shallow on both sides.

If approaching from the east on the ICW, you can turn on a course of 296º from the Belle Fontaine Light 8 and proceed approximately 1.8 nm to the Biloxi East Channel light 2. From there, the channel initially heads due north. Follow it around until the Biloxi East Channel light 26, then turn to starboard on a heading of 36º to the Ocean Springs Channel Light 2. Again, follow the Ocean Springs channel carefully and keep an eye on the depth meter, as it gets quite shallow on both sides.

Limited but not trounced by BP oil spill

Yes it's really very hot down here in New Orleans and the Gulf Coast region. And, yes the massive BP oil spill has dampened our plans to sail off into the Gulf for the time being (eight weeks into this mess). But we still have Lake Pontchartrain and the surrounding communities/playgrounds. If we really want to, we can travel down the Rigolets and into the Gulf but not move beyond Cat Island. We're contemplating that possibility, that is if the current weather and other trends keep the oil away.

In the meantime, we'll do what most sailors do down here. We'll avoid the intense heat of the day and opt for sailing late afternoon and/or evening. Our new friend George has a neat Cat he keeps at South Shore Marina.

Oh, I need to mention that we moved back to this our old marina, refurbished since Hurricane Katrina ('05). It's where we lost our first sailboat, a C&C 27 - Mark V, to the storm. South Shore is beautiful (like spanking new), great price and closer to the exit for the Rigolets (hence Gulf of Mexico). We're happy to have brought over our current 1979 Pearson 365 ketch, "Talisman," and look forward to more coastal cruising from this strategic point.

So George invited us on his 1993 Juntot Cat, 40 ft., and we sailed off around the Lake along with a friend of his. What a treat! The Cat sailed well in light winds, responding really very quickly, no matter how relaxed the sail plan. Multihulls feel lighter and more stable, given their beaminess and less weight below water. Talk about space - wow! Lots of comfort. Mike and I experienced more enjoyment with less effort. Would that be the case in trickier weather? We plan to test that further. Thanks, George!

Changing out the fuel tanks on Talisman

Why haven't we been cruising lately? The most obvious answer is that it's so infernally hot and muggy along the Gulf Coast. Besides it's storm/hurricane season, and today's the anniversary of the last horrific storm to hit New Orleans. Hurricane Katrina.

We might have tried to sail at night or make small trips in and around Pontchartrain Lake, but as it turns out, we found we would have to change out the fuel tanks. Mike has done a superb job of adding life to our handsome, aging gracefully sailboat. (Might that refer to us too? Surely hope so.) I, for one, am looking forward to our next sailing adventure.

Here's Mike's account of the tank replacement project:

PART I

Removal of the Old Steel Fuel Tank

I recently removed the 50 gallon steel fuel tank from Talisman, my wife’s and my 1979 Pearson 365 sailboat, in preparation for the installation of two new replacement tanks. As this is a task that is faced sooner or later by many boat owners, a description of the process is provided here for the adventurous do-it-yourselfers. Of course, one might wonder why one would ever need to replace a fuel tank. The answer is that all metal fuel tanks are subject to corrosion and eventually start leaking. Many start to leak after only a few years while others last a lot longer. Also, they all eventually accumulate lots of crud in the bottom of the tank that is often hard to remove and may clog the fuel filter (and prevent the engine from working) when it gets stirred up in choppy water.

One alternative I considered was to pull the engine and remove the old tank through the passageway. Then it could be replaced by a single tank of equal size, installed through the passageway. After receiving a cost estimate for this approach, I decided on a different approach. I cut the existing tank in half, removed the pieces through the cockpit lockers, and replaced it with two tanks, each half as wide as the original. The smaller tanks were installed through the cockpit locker, thus saving the cost of engine removal. Actually, it is not as big a job as I had feared. The removal of the old tank can be completed by a single person in a single day if you are well organized.

The first job was to remove as much fuel from the tank as possible. I disconnected the fuel hose where it attaches to the primary fuel filter and used an electric fuel pump to transfer the fuel into five gallon fuel cans. It is best if the tank is less than half full before beginning.

When I emptied as much fuel as I could, I poured in a gallon of degreaser and a gallon of water. I know that diesel is less easy to ignite than gasoline, but I didn’t want any unpleasant surprises. I then siphoned out a small amount of the mixture and tried to ignite it with a BernzOmatic torch. It failed to ignite, so I began cutting.

My old tank had a single baffle running perpendicular to the centerline. This seems to be common for tanks of similar size. The first step was to cut out two rectangular sections on each side of the tank, one before the baffle and the other after. I cut these sections as large as possible to afford maximum access to the inside of the tank. I used a reciprocating saw with a heavy duty bimetal blade with 14 teeth per inch. The tank was made of 0.125 mill steel, but cutting went quite fast. Once the sides are opened up, the remaining fuel mixture can be removed with a plastic scoop or a cup and a few wads of paper towel.

The next step was to cut the baffle in half. Using the openings already cut in the sides of the tank, I cut to the center of the baffle from each side. Due to obstructions and cramped space in my boat, the front and back walls of the tank were most easily cut with the saw inside the tank. Again, I started from each side and cut to the center.

Once the tank is cut in half horizontally, the top half was removed through the port cockpit locker. The bottom half was a little trickier for one person to get out, but it can be done. After removing the tank, be sure to vacuum up all the small metal pieces so they don’t leave rust spots.

Why did I do all this? The old tank was 30 years old. Although it wasn’t leaking, I assumed that it was living on borrowed time and I didn’t want to worry about it starting to leak in the middle of a cruise. However, when I removed the tank and inspected it, I didn’t find any part that looked to be on the verge of failure. It was, however, extremely dirty inside. Would I undertake this project if I knew then what I know now? I think so, even though the tank didn’t appear to be on the verge of leaking. In any case, I am looking forward to completely clean new tanks and the added flexibility that a two-tank system affords.

The S/V Veranda Shares Their Stories

S/V Veranda
Its more than just sunsets and cocktails out on the Veranda
http://veranda422.blogspot.com/
Bill and Christy have sailed the Eastern Coast all the way to the Bahamas over a two-year period. You will definitely enjoy their accounts of adventure, neat destinations, socializing with other mariners, incredible pictures, fishing acumen, and much, much more. What a world of experience they pack into their blog.

Maybe we, from the Gulf Coast, and they, from the East Coast, will meet up someday in the Florida Keys or Bahamas. Who says life is boring!

So, get your favorite refreshment and sit down for a fantastic read.

After that you might decide to pitch in with comments, stories, pictures or other. I certainly hope so. Conversation is good.

Your views, your stories?

Has anyone a story to share about the Gulf Coast, Florida keys, or Bahamas?
Tell us about your sailboat, crew, time of year, highlights, lessons learned, or anything else that comes to mind.

Mike and I are learning, and we want to make friends.

Really. We'd love to hear from you!

LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part IV

Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part IV)

Fri 6/5. Blue Herons and Dolphins accompanied my yoga. Ingram Bayou was a serene and beautiful hideaway. No wonder so many recommend it! We were not that motivated to leave for the return trip to New Orleans, our home. Our friends were still resting when we weighed our muddy anchor and set off. Weather reports on the VHF advised of gusty winds close to 20 kts. directly on our bow. No use trying to sail on the Alabama Canal, but we expected to reach Mobile Bay in a couple of hours and then decide on sailing options. As we slid past the Canal entrance to the Bay, we were attracted once more by Sailboat Bay with its appealing condos and boat slips. Now that we knew how charming the Lower Alabama neighborhoods were, the condos seemed strategically located for easy access to places we admired both East and West. Who knows? Must keep one’s options open.
Mobile Bay welcomed us with winds WNW at 15-20kts. and waves 3+ ft. Mike raised a reefed main, and we motorsailed bumpily across to the Dauphin Is. Bridge on the other side of the Bay at 5.5 kts. against the wind. We passed Dauphin Is. and Petit Bois, heading for Horn Is., where we had not been and yearned to try. Given the wind direction and speed, that had not let up all day, we decided to try the south side of the Island facing the Gulf. Our charts showed reasonable depths of 12-16 ft. just ½ mi. offshore. Mike dropped 70 ft. of chain and another 5 of rode for added safety just in case. We expected winds to veer toward North and quiet to 5-10 kts. for the night. Perfect for a comfortable evening and sleep.
The sun was setting when we dropped the hook, and the panorama was great. Horn Is. was quite attractive, with woods throughout the Island, fine white sand beaches, and very little boat traffic, at least on its southern shore. We basically had a stretch of 2-3 mi. all to ourselves, it seemed.

Sat 6/6. Just after breakfast, we headed eagerly for the shore. We rowed the dinghy in and lifted it up on the bank. Walking along the shoreline, we saw sand crabs that scattered rapidly as we approached, stingrays, and then came upon what seemed to be the skeletal remains of a wooden boat. The Park Service must have cordoned it off, and there it lay on the sand for all to see and wonder the when and how of this probable shipwreck.
Out of nowhere, it seemed, a bikini-clad woman came into view as she briskly walked the beach. We approached her to ask some questions about Horn Is. and found she was friendly and informative. She said it was best we not enter the woods, given the pesky sand flies and, oh no, snakes. That was enough to distance me! She and her husband, who was fishing at some point along the shore, would “escape” to the Island often from Biloxi. “Only a 15 min. ride,” she affirmed. Maybe they actually flew over the water, as many boaters seem to do from the Mississippi coastline to the islands and back. Maybe it was slight exaggeration. It reminded us that we had chosen sailing for other reasons rather than speed. But at times we would also want to get away or get to the islands fast. Ah, so many tradeoffs.
The sun was climbing in the sky, and we went for a good swim to cool off. The temperature of the water was deliciously cool. And what clear waters. This visit to Horn Is. would prove to be memorable.
After lunch we set out for Cat Island, the last of the string of sizeable islands off the Mississippi Coast on the way to the Rigolets. A stopover at Cat Is. would mean that we would have completed visits to the must-see islands off the Mississippi coast (from East to West in this order): Petit Bois, Horn, Ship and Cat.
We wanted to find anchorage at Smugglers Cove on the southeast end of the Island, but our 4.5 ft. keel would have put us at a couple of miles off shore where the predicted SW winds could pick up. So, we cozied up to a spot about ½ mi. off the eastern side of the Island.
It was evident by the many boats that dotted the shoreline that this side of Cat Is. is quite popular. The sun was setting when we dropped anchor. Once again we admired a beautiful sunset, with dolphins, pelicans and seagulls playing in the vicinity. Maybe Nature knew that we were sadly nearing the end of our trip and wanted to give us an extra treat.

Sun 6/7. Continuing the search for new overnighters, we passed through the Rigolets and into Lake Pontchartrain but passed up our usual stopping point, Oak Harbor, Slidell. This had been our entrance and exit point for several trips, but we decided to shoot for Mandeville, LA. We were able to hoist the spinnaker for some good sailing (not motorsailing) for a few hours until we reached Mandeville.
This city on the north shore of Lake Pontchartrain has some special charm. There are lots of marinas, but the public dock is available for overnighters, and there are power outlets that mostly work. Lakeshore Drive that runs parallel to the Lake is a promenade for dogs and their owners, couples, families and those who are looking to exercise by walking, biking or running. There are nice views, and at least ½ dozen eating spots within walking distance too. After registering our stay at the public dock with the beautiful, rebuilt (after Hurricane Katrina) Pontchartrain Yacht Club, we strolled to a restaurant and then turned in for the night.

Mon 6/8. Our last day was spent getting back to the Tchefuncte River and our marina. We experienced what, it seems, many sailors do: a desire to continue the cruising adventure tempered by a desire to get home to feel at-home with the accompanying routines. Unless we were to move onboard, we would probably continue to have those conflicting feelings into the future. For now we felt satiated and said “so long” to Talisman, with a “we’ll go out soon again.”

Summary:
• We have now visited the Mississippi islands we read and hear about (for sailors): Cat, Ship, Horn and Petit Bois
• Lower Alabama via the Alabama Canal (or “the ditch,” or Alabama ICW) is delightful with plenty of options. We haven't exhausted them all yet.
• The weather was not a problem, though we would have wanted to sail more, rather than motor or motor/sail
• Next trip should get us to the Florida Panhandle and maybe beyond.

LA-MS-AL Trip May-June 09 Part III

Louisiana – Mississippi – Alabama Coastal Sailing
May 27 – June 8, 2009
Beautiful Sights and Valuable Lessons (Part III)

Tue 6/2. The weather was supposed to be very hot, in the low 90’s. Hey, this is only the beginning of June! What will it be like along the Gulf Coast during July and August, we wondered. T-storms out of the west were predicted for the following several days. We would probably have a decent day but the buildup would mean rain for sure by the early evening. We decided to stay an extra night at Bear Point Marina and dedicate ourselves to wallowing in the pleasantries of our new neighborhood. Not difficult at all. Besides, who’s on a schedule? Cruising is supposed to be about loosening the grip of past habits and demands. Etc., etc. And let’s not get started on that, for now.

The best way to explore the neighborhood is with the dinghy, we agreed. We wanted to get a closer look at Pirates Cove Restaurant and Roberts Bayou just across the way. And, maybe we could take a swim and admire other landscapes around there. A refreshing dip in the clear waters of the Canal would also be desirable given the direct, relentless heat of the Southern sun.

Pirates Cove faces the ICW and has sufficient pier for several boats to tie up. It was evident that patrons motored in regularly for the famous hamburgers, family time and a small natural beach for kids to romp around in. Entering the channel to Roberts Bayou was easy by daylight since the markers are clear, but we probably would have had our doubts by night. Nonetheless, despite appearances, even sizeable boats with deeper keels were nestled everywhere we looked in the coves we saw behind the restaurant. Roberts Bayou was delightful. I couldn’t get enough, as you will/have noticed in the slideshow. This neck of the woods is next door to Perdido Bay and accessible to Mobile Bay’s east shore towns of Fairhope, Daphne, Foley and others. It certainly made my mouth water. Who knows…

We continued making our way along the coastline and stopped where we had a view of the Canal on a lonely strip of “beach.” After some munchies and a cool swim, we crossed over the Canal and headed back the long way, taking our dinghy in close to shore to see the enticing homes and their boats.

As mentioned before, the live aboard cruisers at the Marina were just as nice as can be. One couple offered us a ride to the grocery a few miles away. I got the fresh goods we’d need for the next 5 days (which is what we can accommodate onboard Talisman). And, they entertained me with their accounts of travels to Venezuela and other parts of the Caribbean. Now their Morgan was parked at the Marina while they worked day jobs. But who knows for how long. It seems that, once you taste the good life, you always look forward to your next trip, when you can again break away from conventional life for as long as the funds hold out. They were probably in their 50’s but still going strong.

Another couple we met had sold their farm and their belongings in Texas. They were probably in their 40’s and whose grown son also loved sailing. This couple bought an Island Packet, moved onboard, and was making their way to Florida and the eastern Caribbean. This is not unusual amongst sailors. And, what pleasant and interesting people! Everyone at the Marina, whether sailor or staff, was great. Even teenagers seem to do well, and that’s a lot to ask for. Maybe it’s the saner, healthier environment of Nature that puts things in perspective for humans.

And, by the way, the food at Flippers Restaurant on site was very satisfactory, and the views, enchanting.

Wed 6/3. The weather was deteriorating. Heading west would have meant heading directly into the storms. Why not stay another night? We decided to do just that and spend the day cleaning, charging up equipment, checking on weather reports and so forth.
Meantime, we spoke with our sailing buddies on the s/v Candida. They were anchored in Wolf River. We would connect with them around Ingram Bayou where Mike and I planned to spend the next night.

Thu 6/4. Long necked herons accompanied my yoga. Everything looked refreshed after the all-night rains. We left Bear Point Marina and pointed toward Ingram Bayou, across the way and a few miles west. The entrance is easy to pass up. Just remember that it is on the east side of Barber Marine.

Once in we were met with a very pretty sight, and we weren’t the only ones admiring the scenery. Several sailboats, including a Cat, and one house boat occupied the area just inside the entrance channel. That’s where depths are reasonable (7-9 ft.). Beyond there, depths dropped off to 5 ft. or less. Ingram Bayou is very nice (different but not nicer than the Tchefuncte River, LA from where we hailed), with rich foliage, lots of birds, and frequent visits of dolphins. And clean, fresh water, perfect for a swim.

Our friends showed up and decided to overnight. So they rowed over in their dinghy (Bubba the cat stayed to protect the boat). We chatted and caught up, as well as revisited the inevitable events that occur when one is cruising (see Part I). Luckily Talisman didn’t have a breakdown of any kind. The engine was leaking fuel, and Mike had jury rigged a container to catch most of the diesel (taking care of that and a rusted 30-yr. old fuel tank will be the subject of a posting by Mike in the near future).

Mike and I took a dip in the Bayou. Oh, how refreshing! That, a nap, and dinner with our friends on Talisman made for a luxurious afternoon and evening. Good company, fabulous sights, and even the threatening cloud buildup and thunder were part of the fun.

Phil and Karen were going to leave for Pensacola the next day, and we would be pointing in the opposite direction toward New Orleans. Mike and I experienced a twinge of envy. Could we instead follow them to new and different places, rather than head home? Not this time, unfortunately. But soon we would be back and give in to that urge to push the envelope further: Pensacola, Panama City and beyond the Florida Panhandle.

Our trip wasn’t over. We would experience new places on the way back to New Orleans: Horn and Cat islands. Stay tuned for the final leg of this trip. Those islands and getting there added a lot to our total experience!